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Heater valve replacement Posted by Saana88 [Email]  (#207)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Saana88) on Mon, 12 Feb 2007 14:52:31
In Reply to: Re: heater control valve broken, bin900, Mon, 12 Feb 2007 07:49:59 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Wow, that's a classic! The metal heater valve in our '85 failed ten years ago!
The new valve will not have a capillary tube.
You may need to remove the accelerator pedal and bend it to allow it to clear the newer valve. This is not as difficult as it sounds and instructions should be included if you get a Saab valve.
Beware the aftermarket valves! They look identical on the outside, but are very different inside. The aftermarket valve I installed in my '88 900 started leaking on my foot nine months after I put it in. Judging from commentary around here, that's a longer-than-average lifespan.
You can re-use the existing heater hoses in the engine compartment. DO NOT overtighten the hose clamps on the plastic heater valve tubes which stick through the firewall. You may break the new valve.
To replace the valve, remove the center storage console if your car has one (doubtful for '84 unless you have a turbo) and remove the ashtray. There is a 10 mm bolt holding the ashtray in (console-equipped cars only) and a 13 mm bolt holding in the lower dash pad. Remove this bolt. Also remove two small (10 mm) bolts in the engine compartment behind the wheel wells below the hood seat bracket going through the firewall. You will need multiple socket extensions. Do not worry if you drop the bolt; it will fall out the bottom. Do not remove the larger bolts that hold the upper dashboard in place; this is unnecessary. After removing these three bolts, the lower dash pad should come out; pull it downward without cracking it.
Remove the driver's side speaker and defroster vent grille/cover. Two screws, lift up gently to disengage the tongues and wiggle it side to side to disengage the metal spring clip.
Now that you're in there, slide the control rod for the heater control off of the valve. You should only have to detach one side.
Next, drain enough coolant to get the heater valve above water. If the control still worked, I would tell you to set it to maximum heat. Remove the hose clamps holding the heater hoses to the valve in the engine compartment where the heater valve sticks through the firewall.
Next is where you need the only special tool for the job. Any 4 mm allen (hex) wrench will do in a pinch, but you will save yourself half an hour by having a ball-end hex wrench, commonly made by Bondhus. This allows you to turn hex-head screws (like the four holding your heater valve to the heater core) with the tool at a slight angle where access is tight. Keep a towel or rag under the valve since coolant will spill out of it.
After you get those screws out, remove the heater valve. You may need to make a replacement for the piece of foam that insulates the pipes where they go through the firewall. Be sure to seat the seals (o-rings) on the other side, aim the pipes through the firewall, connect the rod if you can, then bolt the new valve to the heater core.
Be sure to bleed air out of the cooling system when you refill.
All done! If you have any more questions, ask away.
, Mon, 12 Feb 2007 14:52:31 <-- Viewing This Message, Mon, 12 Feb 2007 18:30:12
, Mon, 12 Feb 2007 21:12:44
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