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Re: 8v idle problems
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Posted by Saana88 [Email] (#207) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Saana88) on Thu, 5 Apr 2007 16:24:40 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: 8v idle problems, KBsaab, Thu, 5 Apr 2007 10:44:37
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Have you cleaned the top of the air metering venturi plate? While you're in there, you can draw the lever up and down a few times to check for binding. Also check that the rubber boot between the metering body and the throttle valve is securely attached and free of leaks (including the decel shutoff valve on the side). After that, I'd check the thermoswitches (one for the oxygen sensor in the head between intake pipes 2 and 3, one in the thermostat housing near the coolant gauge sender) and the intake manifold gasket, the fuel injector seals, the injectors themselves (be sure they're not sticking open and drooling) (all five of them, the cold start injector comes to mind), and check the output of your oxygen sensor. It sounds to me like the startup program (warm-up regulator controlling the cold start injector for startup enrichment) is a little over-anxious, possibly helped out by some unmetered air entering through a loose metering-throttle bellows or a failed throttle body or intake manifold gasket. Then it sounds like the warm running protocol (idle valve warmed up, oxygen sensor controlling the lambda pulse) it a little under the weather.

I know, I just ticked off a list of just about everything under the hood. I'd go after leaking injectors first since the smell in your exhaust sounds rich (too much fuel, leaky injectors) instead of lean (vacuum or intake gasket leaks). When's the last time you changed the oxygen sensor? I know they can last a lot longer than 60k, but the signal gets a little lazy after that time and it can't loop as effectively. I just had to replace the in-line fuse for the oxygen sensor which is clipped to the passenger's side inner fender near the cabin air intake. Of course, they used a ceramic fuse there (awful and corrodes very easily, from my Volvo 240 experience) so it had rusted to where half of the fuse was welded to the contact and the other half broke off. The fuse is for the heating circuit (I think) but it should be working nonetheless.
Of course I failed to mention a short in the oxygen sensor signal wire may diminish the signal and fool the computer into going rich.
For a basic idea of what the oxygen sensor is trying to do to the car (warm), listen to the fuel modulating valve on the driver's inner fender when the engine is running.
I also just finished changing the vacuum advance mechanism on the distributor.
There we go. I narrowed it down to everything for you. It shouldn't be as bad as it sounds though. Do you have the 8 valve Bentley book?
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