1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Well I'm not sure how extensive the rust is, but really for something like this you want to have a welder (cheapo tig or whatever will work fine for thin gauge metal like this). You should really try and avoid using excessive amounts of bondo, it will show even if you do a decent job with it, and it won't hold the test of time. Stuff's fine for small rust spots, though - hence "body *filler*." FYI, the fenders are not detachable like most of the other body panels - in other words to replace them you will need to cut and weld in new metal. The beauty of them is, though, that you can cut a peice off of a junker, make the same cuts on your car, and weld the new bit in. Are you referring to the typical rust just on the lips? for that your best bet is to just weld in a patch. If it's very minimal, bondo is acceptable. I'd recommend getting a good book on body repair, or even a more general car restoration book. Actually, that guy Per that works at GRM who is restoring that 99 - i think he recently did similar repairs and posted some decent pictures on the GRM website (grassroots motorsports). That might give you some idea for a start.
A good paint shop *should* be able to get a match on that walnut paint just from the code.
I'm sure there are going to be plenty of people that say "don't do it - find a car with a good shell and swap over." But the fact is, in some time c900s will not be as easy to come by as they are now. I think if you're willing, it's always a good idea to save 'em if you can ;) I guess, though, the same logic would apply to saving a good shell with, for example, a blown trans from the junker. I dunno, at the end of the day you'll feel better about the car if you keep it all original and patch it up nicely. My 2c anyway...
posted by 208.59.115...
, Mon, 18 Jun 2007 17:33:42
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