1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Pull the vac line off the FPR and smell it. If it's a strong fuel smell, you're prolly right. Or, put a MityVac on the line and see if it holds (or pulls fuel).
Might also pull an AMM from one of your other cars *if the last three digits are the SAME* and see if the mileage returns.
Here is how I test fuel pressure:
1. Get fuel pressure gauge.
2. Go to junkyard and find a V6 GM fuel-injected engine. Look at the fuel rails for a fuel pressure test valve -- looks like a standard Schrader valve but a bit larger and has a steel, knurled cap on it. Unbolt it.
3. Now go to any CIS or Jetronic-fueled car - Saab, Volvo, VW -- doesn't matter. Find a banjo bolt that's the same size as the Saab's. (Or, you can use one of your car's existing bolts.)
4. Now you're going to drill out the flat end of the banjo bolt, tap the hole, and screw in the GM valve. Measure the threads on the GM valve, drill/tap accordingly, and bolt on the valve. Install at either end of the fuel rail**. You now have a handy test port for fuel pressure, which, in my opinion is safer than cutting open your existing line in order to splice in some port that comes with a gauge kit.
5. Put your gauge on and see what you got.
**If you have AC and put the valve on the end closest to the fuel rail, getting the AC off for future repairs becomes a little bit tougher. However, in this position, you can attach the gauge in a place where you can see it, hold it to the windshield, and drive around while watching pressure. Or, you can attach the valve at the opposite end, in which case, if you need to see what the pressure is doing while driving, you can't. OR, just remove the valve when you're done and re-fit a stock banjo bolt.
posted by 67.183.141...
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