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Re: 88 900s bad master cylinder Posted by Saana88 [Email]  (#207)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Saana88) on Wed, 12 Dec 2007 15:06:16
In Reply to: Re: 88 900s bad master cylinder, derek900, Tue, 11 Dec 2007 19:42:04 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
If you've pushed the passenger side piston out to the point that it leaks, then it's stuck and there is air in that channel, so nothing will happen.
I got the rebuild kit for my master cylinder (same part '88-'89) but couldn't find the set screw to pull it apart. Get the Gerling equivalent. It's cheaper than the Saab part. Do you know what the big difference is? Someone took a Dremel tool and scratched the Saab emblem off the reservoir. Ooooooooh!
Start soaking your bleeder valves in penetrating oil now.
Since there has been a major leak in the hydraulic system, I highly recommend bleeding the whole thing after you are done.
Get a pair of front calipers. I've had good luck with Centric rebuilds, at least as far as getting you down the road for 3-5 years. They're cheap but good. Also get a master cylinder and a full liter of DOT 4 brake fluid. Don't use the blue stuff and don't use DOT 3. If you're in a parts store, I tend to use Castrol LMA or whatever they're calling it. And finally, get a master cylinder. Your total parts cost from a certain site sponsor typically used for their free shipping over $39 is $267.70.
For tools, you'll need standard and deep set sockets (particularly 13, 17 and 19 mm), some flare nut wrenches (not required, but nicer for removing the brake line fittings), a Vacuum Hose Plugging Tool (golf tee), a turkey baster or bulb syringe (to evacuate the existing reservoir; throw this fluid away with your recycled motor oil), a pair of needle nosed pliers (for removing the clutch master supply line), a standard set of box/combination wrenches (for removing the caliper mounting bolts), a short section of brake fluid resistant tubing, another one in case the clutch master hose has gotten brittle (I have one and can find more), penetrating oil (again, start soaking your rear bleeders now, once a day before you work, and once an hour before you work), some sort of catch container (for bleeding) and a friend with either a strong leg or experience in opening bleeder screws (for bleeding). Of course, you'll need the jack and blocks or stands and lug wrench and a series of rags et cetera to get the car in the air and the wheels off.
Replace the front calipers first. As long as your pads have enough material left on them (minimum is 4 mm from Bentley a la Saab) you can re-use them. Next replace the master cylinder (two fittings, two bolts, and clutch line, that simple) and bleed everything.
, Tue, 11 Dec 2007 13:43:55
, Tue, 11 Dec 2007 13:32:44, Wed, 12 Dec 2007 15:06:16 <-- Viewing This Message, Tue, 11 Dec 2007 07:59:28
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