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justin has it-facts right here, and link to parts Posted by nicknick [Email] ![]() ![]() In Reply to: Re: No!, Justin VanAbrahams ![]() |
ok, i know all this for a fact, just did the job last week, but really i am just repeating justin's statement.
as stated, unbolt upper balljoint with the 2 bolts after blocking upper arm with a spacer. i used an old rear brake pad, but i would recommend something stronger (the brake pad bent!)
turn steering so that rack pushes out in that direction, giving you the most swing of the knuckle.
unscrew inner driver boot clamp-flat head screwdriver required. if doing pass side (you should really be doing both at this point), clean and repack inner joints upon reassembly.
slide out the knuckle with cv joint/axle attached. cut off old clamp/pry off with screwdriver. cut the whole boot off with sharp knife.
clean up joint, also carefully rotate and inspect all surfaces. while doing all of this, be carefull not to strain the brake hose.
then comes the biggest pain-using circlip pliars, open circlip that is hiding just inside the joint-you will have to rotate joint so clip is facing you. the action required is a simple pull, while clip is held open. however, this requires some patience and faith. it will just slide out, but not the first time!
the clip is to be thrown away, a new one is in the kit.
slide boot with small clip over shaft, slide big clip over cv, pack with supplied grease, slide the shaft back into joint, slide boot into place, manipulate a little to remove most of the air.
now, you need a crimping tool to correctly crimp those clips. probably $8 or so from tool store, but a good investment-keep it with the circlip pliars.
crimp clamps after setting them as tight as they go first-careful as you only get one shot at this.
reassemble everything, when car gets put back on floor, don't forget to pull the spacers back out-i forget this all the damn time, and when they fall out on the first corner, it will scare the hell out of you!
all done, grab a beer!
posted by 70.193.2...
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