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Re: Bye Bye DINO! Hello SYN SYN! Posted by Saana88 [Email]  (#207)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Saana88) on Tue, 15 Apr 2008 16:19:54
In Reply to: Bye Bye DINO! Hello SYN SYN!, NOSNAAB, Mon, 14 Apr 2008 23:05:32 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
The drain plug is a T65 Torx bit. I've heard of others putting too much leverage through a siezed one and cracking the transmission case, so please be careful next time!
Quite a bit of metal came out of my transmission, but I also believe it was the original oil when I changed it. Just be sure to clean off the magnet really well. Others say there's some kind of screen inside that I haven't found yet.
Since you say your transmission has a fill hole and not a dipstick or dipstick/fill tube, I assume you have a 1990 or newer turbo transmission.
If your old gear lube was breaking down, new fluid will definitely make the car shift smoother. Good for you, your car loves you again!
eE has the vacuum fittings. I do them all every 5-6 years. If one's brittle, the rest are too, just waiting for a wayward leaning mechanic or wrench or something.
You don't have to pull any wheels to change the fuel filter on 16 valve cars, where it is not in the engine compartment. Just don't lay under the tires and you are fairly out of harm's way, unless a tree falls on your car and snaps the axle or anything like that. The Torx screw holding the FF in place in the axle tunnel is a REALLY good place for anti-sieze.
Whenever I jack up my cars, I leave the jack in place on one side as the car is sitting on blocks to act as a standby. I haven't needed it yet. Just support the car in a good place. I jack under the jacking points and support the car under the box members in front and the trailing arm attachment points in the rear. As always, the car is in gear and the parking brake is on. If you are afraid of the car rolling, chock the wheel opposite to where you are lifting (left front versus right rear, etc.). For me, the freakiest part of changing a (16 valve, under-car) fuel filter is the nasty feeling of fuel running down my arms after breaking the bolts loose. Don't forget your new sealing washers; you need two smaller ones and two bigger ones. Or as Disk and Earth say, take it to a mechanic the first time, so you know the bolts are loose for the next time when you do it. I tend to run some strong fuel injector cleaner all the way through the tank running it nearly dry, then change the fuel filter. That way, if anything is ready to be stirred up or dissolved in the tank, it will get stirred up or dissolved and the old FF will catch it, then you quickly remove it.
If you check your oil level within five minutes or so of adding oil, it won't all drip into the sump so the stick may read a little low. My 900s take 3.85 quarts or their metric equivalent for engine oil. Starting the engine will circulate a full quantity of oil into the filter, so check it after the car sits for five minutes or so.
, Tue, 15 Apr 2008 16:19:54 <-- Viewing This Message
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