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, Fri, 25 Jun 2010 09:48:47
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Chris,
1. As mentioned earlier you'd first check whether it's RPM signal that doesn't trigger it on or the relay itself. Do that wire-jumping, start on the engine and check that special contact (#31B? sorry, I'm not that good nowadays as I used to be before) if there's the RPM there. If not then start with tracing that wire first - right from tachometer or ignition amplifier (pls refer to Jon's diagram).
2. These relays are prone giving those troubles. First they start with not-pinging fuel pump on for about 1/2 sec when you just turn the ignition on. Later they completely go south - but that's about that special functionality that is RPM-dependent. But keep in mind that it's just a relay (although with additional sine input) so it can be just that relay contactor that is bad. So go inside, it shouldn't be that complex (I'd rate it as about 1/10th of tranny rebuild service :))
2.1 http://www.swedishbricks.net/TechTips/fuelpumprelay.html
You can refer to this web page as a rebuild guide (our relay is placed in a bit another body, but it doesn't play much here, the physics remains the same among all the designs)
3. Check 250655602697 auction on the Bay (I think it's from Noel TSN member). I also found this relay offered at SaabBrains (http://www.saabbrains.com/SaabBrainsItem.php?item=49912).
~$50 + shipping at both shops.
4. I don't think it's worth going with re-wiring (especially considering your idea of... yep... say, gathering Classic 900's) so I'd go either with fixing your relay or ordering some used one or going with digital copy: it's not that hard to build a CPU- (microcontroller) based copy of this relay and that's what I did for AeroFlop (my previous C900, MY'84, CIS'd). The algorithm is pretty straight-forward: turn the output on for about a second in the initial start-up interrupt handler (don't forget to turn it off when that second is expired) and handle that RPM input (turn the output on when there is a signal at the input and turn it off if the input hasn't been triggered for about 1/5 sec). A cheap 8bit MCU can do that. Though you can really consider that to be a complete moonspeak if you never handled an interrupt, sorry... :)
5. I'm not that good at '83 specifics, but it also can be some other components (overboost switch, boost enrichment functionality and so on) that can give no-start issue, but if wire-jumping for fuel relay works for you then I wouldn't go that deep. At least I'd really start with fuel relay.
6. I can be wrong, but I take the difference between '83 and '84 model years to be only in the fuse design (those old bulbs vs modern styled), in all other views they should be just the same - I mean to say that you can go on with your factory manual that covers '84 model year.
Yours,
Zig
P.S.
And yes, I left a message :)
posted by 77.37.1...
, Fri, 25 Jun 2010 09:48:47, Fri, 25 Jun 2010 13:12:40, Fri, 25 Jun 2010 13:16:20, Fri, 25 Jun 2010 14:29:20
, Fri, 25 Jun 2010 15:48:52, Fri, 25 Jun 2010 19:20:10, Sun, 27 Jun 2010 18:27:44
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