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, Sun, 7 Apr 2013 21:04:43
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so I've used the drill perpendicular to the shaft and pin it, hot glue, epoxy, JB Weld, and other stuff over the years and hundreds of lights. The repair is usually for the threaded part that the shaft screws through for adjusting, it has broken loose or broken into many pieces. I've purchased and used the black and white plastic bits too.
I work on c900s and 9000s as a hobby and to make some money to race my Lemons c900. So see many broken adjusters, I swap what I can and move bits around, and have the Hoppy adjuster units so I can and do adjust the lights properly too.
I found the following at either Pep Boys or O'Reily in the adhesives section, where the silicon seal is. it's called a "Plastic Tank Repair Kit" and I buy interesting stuff and had it on my shelf. And since the tank is plastic... decided to try this.
This is what I did that worked very well. First use a heat gun to warm the white bit on the end of the adjuster (note this works for both the c900 and 9000 buckets. the 9000 has the advantage that the end "unlocks" with a small screwdriver placed under the barb to disengage it) this makes the plastic a bit more pliable and you can pull the white part off straight away with pliers and set aside.
you will also want to do the same heat and pull to the adjuster handle to remove it from the shaft. this is needed to slip the shaft out of the bucket, the ball end is too large.
at this point you have options. you can purchase the part from eEuroparts and install it, not sure how it gets anchored but will purchase on just to find out.
Or, you can use just the epoxy in the kit I mentioned above, there is enough epoxy in it for about 4 repairs. I don't remember what I paid for it, but sure not more than $10, I am cheap! "CarGo" QuickSTEEL pn 6522K comes with stuff to seal a plastic gas tank, sand paper, plastic webing, epoxy, and instructions etc.
if you are going to do a repair.... I recommend doing a wire brush (on a drill if you have one) to clean the threads of the adjuster bolt, it gets grungy and you don't want to torque the threaded sleeve too much, plus it's a bitch to turn in some places if it's binding :) I used my bench vise to hold it and a small wire wheel on my drill.
what I did was to cut off about 1/2" or so of the epoxy stick and start kneading as per instructions and while doing that.... roughed up the inside and top and bottom of the area around the hole that the adjuster goes through and where the three bladed bit is secured. more scuff is better for the epoxy to hold. the gave it a warming shot of heat gun. I plastered some in the three channels adjacent to the hole where the threaded broken adjuster is going back.
then screw adjuster into the threaded plastic and put in hole, butter both the top and the inside with more epoxy and push in to cover the top especially, and the inside just smooth it over the area. the outside will have a 3/4 marble shape to it.
let set and harden, about 6 hours. I heat as before and put the white plastic on the ball and the adjuster handle on the splined or knurled end (could be either type) put a drop of oil or white grease on the thread.... very small amount, and run the screw from end to end. at this point it will be as solid as new.
put it back together. sure it's a blob but it works. I will do it again in a couple of days and take pictures.
posted by 72.220.32...
, Sun, 7 Apr 2013 14:12:41, Mon, 8 Apr 2013 06:00:14
, Sun, 7 Apr 2013 14:03:04
, Sun, 7 Apr 2013 13:36:49, Sun, 7 Apr 2013 21:04:43
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