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Re: UPDATE: Hot wired pump, still no start Posted by Cmyles [Email]  (#1126) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Cmyles) on Wed, 5 Mar 2014 17:08:42
In Reply to: UPDATE: Hot wired pump, still no start, Jeremy, Wed, 5 Mar 2014 16:20:12 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
The fuel pump relay is right next to the main relay (#102 in the picture), above the ECU on the right side wall in the front passenger's foot well. You must peel back the carpet and reach way up there to get at it (or the main relay which is #229 in the picture). The main relay is the one that is forward-most and the pump relay is the one rearward-most and they are about 1/4" apart. I'm not sure what relay(s) you are dealing with in the fuse-box on the left inner fender. The only relay in that box that can effect the LH is the AC relay and it's a non-issue in a no-start situation. Did you check fuse #22, it powers the ECU.
Anyway, the current description of symptoms is consistent with a defective main relay. If it fails to close the injectors will not be powered and neither will the fuel pump relay, so the pump will not run. The main relay and fuel pump relay are identical so you can swap them at will. If we assume that you have a good pump relay but a bad main relay then swapping them while also hot wiring the pump should get the car running. That's a test you can do that doesn't require much effort although getting your hand up there and removing and replacing the relays is a PIA. Nowadays I think I'd actually remove the bolster first (cause I'm not flexible anymore), that gives you good access but isn't very practical on the side of the road. When you pull the first relay out mark it with a sharpie so you know where it originated (main or pump) for future reference and be careful to note the orientation so when you go to re-install them you don't waste a bunch of time. Their pins (well, spades) are not symmetrical and they only go in one way and you can't see up in there, you must do it by feel.
So the little black ground wires on the lifting lug by the thermostat were all nice and clean and tight? If not that will kill the LH right now and is a fairly common problem. Also have a look at the positive junction block on top of the right inner fender. I've seen those connections work loose.
, Tue, 4 Mar 2014 07:44:17, Fri, 7 Mar 2014 13:04:32, Fri, 7 Mar 2014 18:29:55, Tue, 4 Mar 2014 08:08:04, Wed, 5 Mar 2014 17:08:42 <-- Viewing This Message, Wed, 5 Mar 2014 17:56:11, Thu, 6 Mar 2014 09:22:39
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