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Re: buying '89 9000CD Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Wed, 6 Mar 2002 00:06:44
In Reply to: buying '89 9000CD, Eduardo, Tue, 5 Mar 2002 23:50:25 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Check out Quasi's site for pointers on buying a 9000. He's a bit tough on automatics, but has good information.
No way I buy a whine due to a bad fuel filter. Maybe if it were really badly clogged, the fuel pump would make a lot more noise. But the fuel pump is in the fuel tank under the trunk - is that where the whine is coming from? And if the pump were running that noisy, I'd expect a new pump soon.
Is the whine when the engine is idling, or only when the car is moving? Does the whine come from the engine compartment, or is it from the dash (fan?).
Try to identify the location of the whine. If it occurs when the car isn't moving, then it probably isn't the transmission, unless it's a problem in the clutch throwout (manual) or automatic. Not that likely - but you should be able to identify if it's from the tranny side or engine side.
Most likely if it's from the engine, that it's from the belt side of the engine, and it's an idler pulley. Not an expensive part, if you mail order it.
Things to look for in a car of that vintage - Automatic transmissions last about 100K. If it's an auto tranny and it's original, expect a $3000 replacement in the next year or so. If it's been replaced recently, that's good.
Turn the heat up and the knob to Defrost, and sniff the vents for coolant. Heater cores have been known to fail. Make sure the cabin blower motor works, and that you can select different speeds. Make sure the A/C works. Yes, it may be cold out, but if the outside temp is over 32 F, the compressor should at least cycle on and off. Siezed compressors aren't uncommon. Check the exhaust for leaks - sit on the ground and put the sole of your shoe over the exhaust pipe - the engine should bog down, and you shouldn't hear exhaust leaking from other holes.
Make sure you can adjust the heat - set it to 80F and make sure it blows hot, then set it to LO and make sure it blows cold.
Other than that - check electricals - heated seats heat, headlights, cruise control works.
Here's a biggie - make sure the rear shocks are OK - press down on the rear bumper and check the rebound. In some years, and I'm pretty sure 89 was one of them, the CD model had self-leveling rear shocks. They can be astoundingly expensive to replace. Most folks replace them with regular shocks, but to do that you need to replace the springs, too. Expect to pay about $400 for a set of rear shocks, or regular shocks and springs.
Use the INFO button to check the voltage while idling. It should be in the 13.5 volt range - no lower than 13.0, no higher than 14.5.
$3500 is a decent price for a car in decent shape.
posted by 12.79....
, Wed, 6 Mar 2002 00:06:44 <-- Viewing This Message, Wed, 6 Mar 2002 09:40:09
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