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1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Assuming you have a water-cooled turbo, you'll need to drain the cooling system. Removing the radiator fan will make things a lot easier and that's only a two-minute job. Make sure you have a 13mm ring spanner or small socket set and can get onto all three downpipe flange nuts. Rather than unbolt the oil return pipe from the bottom of my turbo (I knew one of the bolts was seized), I disconnected the lower end of it from the engine and removed the turbo complete with pipe (a bit unwieldy, but I managed it). Don't forget there is a brace under there too that bolts to the turbo.
Turbo-to-manifold nuts are not too bad with a ring spanner (not one with a deep crank in it, though). I think these were 13mm too. No idea, though, how to get a torque wrench on them when refitting. I did them up with the spanner until they felt right.
Pipe unions were all 12mm, if I remember correctly.
You are supposed to use new turbo-to-manifold mounting studs when refitting, but I didn't (they cost a fortune for the Aero). I used new nuts for the downpipe. New studs there might be good, and they're not so pricey. Obviously, you'll need a new gasket and I found that a bead of copper grease around the inside of the mouth of the downpipe performs the dual purpose of helping the downpipe seat squarely on the turbo so it pulls nice and tight and helping it seal once the copper grease dries out (after a few minutes of idling).
I don't think I've missed out anything important. I did this on an Aero with the Mitsubishi turbo, but I believe the procedure is the same for the T25. I took notes and photos, but don't have them with me now. I really must get round to writing it up and posting it on my web site.
posted by 161.71.171...
, Wed, 8 May 2002 11:37:07
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