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OK, I've just completed the seat repair on a 90 9000 CD, and it wasn't too bad. Follow the instructions on the quasimotors site to remove the seat.
Once you have it upside down, you can see the motor and cable sheaths that go to each side of the back rest. Before taking the seat out, I would try to "equalize" both sides of the seat as much as possible, because when you put everything back together, both sides will move by the same amount irrespective of whether or not they're tilting equally.
A few notes:
Don't bother trying the Torx part when it comes to removing the seatbelt tethering point on the seat. I tried, and I ended up stripping the torx socket. I ended up using the metric socket with a breaker bar instead - after some penetrating lubricant was applied. Unfortunately to get the socket to sit flatly, the door threshold must be removed, which involves several screws and some jimmying under the dash. Maybe a universal joint here might be better.
It is almost conceivable, that once you know the layout, you might be able to do the cable sheath replacement without taking the seat out - but it's certainly easier with it out.
Once you have the seat apart, the motor in the center front of the seat is the one that controls the seatback rake. You'll notice that it has two drive cables coming from it. Check for splits and cracks in the drive cable sheaths. Once the sheath cracks or splits, there is nothing else to prevent the drive cable from popping out of the drive socket on the motor or the other end, near the seat.
To remove the sheath, remove the wire spring holding the plastic sheath ends to the motor and simply pull them free. The inner metal cable part can the be withdrawn (yes it's greasy). To remove the cable sheath itself, give it a good tug and it will come out of the end that goes in to the seat - there's a hole that it fits in to.
To replace the sheath, simply place the plastic end with the slot around it in to the whole, and give the other end a moderate whack with the palm of your hand - you should then not be able to withdraw the sheath easily. Then grease and re-insert the metal cable, and reroute the cable and sheath to the motor/gear assembly. I didn't have any white-lithium grease, but I found a tube of what was named "garage door lubricant" that was allegedly stable from -50F to +220F so I used that instead.
I did both sides at the same time since both cables were very brittle.
posted by 24.59.5...
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