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If you pulled an engine from another car before, the 9k is no more difficult and no less. The drive train of my 94cs is out in the garage now with the transmission separated from the engine waiting for the clutch to arrive. After two engine pulls on the car, it became a routine. I recommend getting the "basic engine" section of the manual from a SAAB dealer. Also get the "general specifications" section (this may not be the exact name). The basic engine section has complete descriptions of how to remove the engine. The general specifications section has all kinds of information and most importantly, the torque values for all the bolts.
From memory, I'll outline the sequence
1. Remove the battery. Remove the battery tray. Separate the ABS control unit from the battery tray. Disconnect the ABS harness connector from the ABS control unit. Set the control unit aside. Disconnect the 1/4" vacuum tube at the check valve next to the battery tray.
2. Remove the aquarium cover. Pull out the engine ECU from the driver side in the aquarium. Disconnect the connector from the ECU and two other wiring connectors. Set the ECU aside. Disconnect the main wiring harness from the firewall. Place the wiring on top of the engine.
3. Pull the two relay boxes attached to the false bulkhead on the driver side. Sling them over to the other side of the bulkhead. Pull the MAP sensor, also attached to the false bulkhead but on the passenger side, and place it on top of the engine. Remove the false bulkhead, two screws and one bolt.
4. Disconnect the throttle cable.
5. Now the engine compartment above the transmission is clear. You can just reach in from above to remove four nuts from the shift linkage coupler. If you can separate the linkage, put the shifter in 1st, 3rd or 5th. Push the transmission shift rod in. Or you can do it when the engine is under lift.
6. Drain coolant by loosening the clamp on the water pump and disconnect the hose. There are two hoses on the pump. Loosen both and disconnect. Disconnect the coolant hose from the radiator to the engine block and remove it. Disconnect and remove the coolant hose from the reservoir to the radiator. Disconnect two coolant hoses from the heater matrix to the engine block. The connections are on the driver side of the engine block. Now all coolant connections to the engine are disconnected.
7. Jack the passenger side front wheel up. Remove the wheel. Remove the wheel trim. Remove the plastic wheel well cover to expose the S-belt. Use a big adjustable pair of pliers to clamp on the tensioner and at the same time loosen the idler pulley. (This is what I do. Other people have other method to loosen the S-belt.) Remove the idler pulley to loosen the S-belt.
8. Loosen and remove three bolts for the AC compressor. Tie the compressor to the car body with a string. Remove the AC compressor bracket attached to the engine block.
9. Loosen three torx screws for the water pump. Remove the water pump.
10. Loosen two bolts on the power steering pump through the holes on the pulley. Use a flat blade screw driver to jar the pump loose from the bracket.
11. Disconnect a vacuum hose on the engine block leading to the passenger side front wheel. Loosen the banjo bolt for the fuel line on the fuel rail. Disconnect the fuel line to the fuel regulator (?) on the driver side of the engine block. Also disconnect the vacuum hose leading to the intake manifold near the engine oil filler tube.
12. Remove two bolts connecting the strut to the brake disc/steering knuckle. Loosen the strap from the inside CV joint. Pull and disconnect the driveshaft. Do the same on the driver side. Get four sandwich bags and four rubber bands. Cover the CV joints. I found it easie for later getting the drive train out of the engine compartment by lowering the car to as low as possible now both front wheels are out.
13. Mine is a CS. One with turbo may be different. Disconnect the hose to the exhaust manifold. Remove the four nuts on the exhaust header. Remove the O2 sensor. Loosen the front pipe and support it by wedging a piece of wood between the pipe and the car boby. You don't want to also replace the exhaust pipes after engine removal.
14. Remove the top engine mount dogbone. Remove the three bottom engine mount bolts.
15. Attach a chain to the two lift points on the engine. Move the lift in place and start lifting. Do it an inch or two at a time and alway check if anything binds.
Installation is of course the reverse. But it takes more time because you need to set the correct torque value for every bolt. Get both 3/8" drive and 1/2" drive torque wrenches if you haven't got them yet.
posted by 165.254....
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