1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
:) Would perhaps be easier to just come show you how to do it...
Ok well here goes:
1) It's been so long (over six years) since I removed my original stuff. As I recall, it didn't seem to me any different than removing an aftermarket deck. Get to the point you're at now, then remove the sleeve by bending the metal tabs around the perimeter towards the center. If that's not it, I'd have to see a picture... Once you get those out, the rest should become obvious, where you unplug the wiring harness.
2) I wouldn't trust any existing wire to power an amp well enough. There are a few good posts somewhere in the archives about best place to run power wire. I did mine a rather hard way, went through a grommet (that's the easy part) in the firewall, though I had to drill through the false firewall, went through right by the ECU, on the driver's side. The bad part is it comes out behind and slightly above the steering column, hard to get sight of or feel of the wire until you have pushed it way in, etc, and even harder to route it down to the driver's door sill. Certainly can be done, as I've done it twice, more flexible wire is both a help and a hindrance. I'm using 8 ga to the trunk, which some may call pathetic, but I only have 240w RMS going at this point, and I don't even make use of all that very often. Maybe for kicks I'll measure voltage at the battery and amp some day, see what the drop is at idle and at full cranked volume.
3) I believe all seats are held in place by four large torx boltsu, at least T50, maybe bigger, in the corner of the frame rails. Should be easy enough to remove, though I suspect there is not enough slack in the wiring harness for the motors/heaters, so disconnect those first.
4) You don't need to remove the back seat to get power wire into the trunk. Just fold the bottom half forward will give you enough access to run, I suspect, even a 4 ga. wire to the trunk, though 4 ga. will probably need to go up the side. My 8 ga. actually sits in the gap between the rear section of the seat bottom, and the floor, then pokes up in the gap where the seats split. My amp's on the 60% seatback section, connections facing down. Works well, except it will suck if I want to sleep in the car...
5) What size your rear speakers are depends on the year of your car. AT some point, they changed from 6.5" to 6" x 9". Either way, removal is the same. There are six nuts that you loosen from underneath, you may have to remove a cosmetic cover first if your car is so equipped. Revove the three inboard nuts, ie closest to the center of the car, but only loosen the outside ones. Then you will be able to grab the woofer which is attached to the metal mounting plate, slide it inwards and pull down, it should fall right out.
Next?
Aaron Gilbert
1987 9000T 282k miles
posted by 205.215.216...
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