1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
You've got to have at least 12.6V output to actually be charging the battery!
There should have been zero change when you went from one amp to the other, that is, when you aren't playing music. Now, if you are cranking it full blast (what's the inline fuse on that amp rated at?) and have the headlights on, engine cooling fan, blower motor, rear window defroster, wipers, seat heaters, etc.. you could be overtaxing the alternator, which can produce the voltages you describe. But to be in the high 11 volt range means you aren't just asking for a little extra current, you're asking for a whole boatload of extra current above and beyond the 80A output capability of your alternator (which is lower at idle, btw).
I'd say something is hooked up wrong, or you are just asking for more current than the alternator can deliver. This is unlikely on actual music while driving - you should be well within the output capabilities of the alternator with any volume that's safe (and many that are unsafe).
I guess we just need some clarification as to when you are seeing these low voltages. If it's with you stereo on at all, regardless of volume setting, you have something connected wrong. Yes amps draw a little idle current, but not THAT much. If you only see the voltage drop when you crank it up all the way, could be you need to upgrade to the 115A alternator.
Just for reference, my system, before I downgraded it, was capable of drawing about 50-60A max. Cranked all the way up, with the engine at idle, it wouldn't drop the alternator's output more than about 0.3V, maybe 0.4V max. What you're talking about is a 1.5V or greater drop, that's way too much to be considered normal. Then again, maybe you listen to sine waves or rap instead of real music? :)
Aaron Gilbert
1987 9000T 283k miles
posted by 205.215.216...
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