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A few questions Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Thu, 6 Feb 2003 08:55:58
In Reply to: Accelerator and AMM Questions, Jenny, Thu, 6 Feb 2003 07:31:12 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
There could be a couple of reasons for the pedal being hard to push.
First is pretty obvious - is something binding in the pedal or cable? Does it need lubrication? I like to use spray liquid teflon or silicone based lubricants. Make sure the pedal isn't hanging up on the carpeting.
Next, is the pedal really harder to push, or do you just have to push it farther? The pedal has a spring, and the farther you need to push it, the harder you have to push - the old spring constant, Kx squared. If the engine is very responsive to the pedal, it seems 'easy' to push because you don't have to push it far. If the engine is unresponsive to the pedal, you have to push it farther. You don't think as much about the extra angle of your foot, just that you have to push harder.
If you're actually having to push the pedal farther to get the engine to respond, it may be the AMM, but it can also be the Oxygen sensor (O2 sensor). How long after starting is the engine unresponsive? A minute or two? Five? Does it eventually get better, or is it like this all the time?
When you first start the car, the O2 sensor isn't up to temperature, so the engine control uses the AMM alone to schedule the fuel to airflow. The O2 sensor has a heater, so it should come on-line in a couple of minutes. With the O2 working, the engine control uses AMM and O2 to schedule fuel.
If the engine is OK right after starting, but gets doggy after a couple of minutes and stays doggy for a few minutes after that, I'd assume the O2 sensor or O2 sensor heater are tired.
If when pulling away from a stop you really need to stomp the gas to get the engine to respond, but it's better at higher RPM, like when you're driving along, I'd suspect the AMM.
If the problem only occurs when the engine is very cold, I'd also suspect the intake temperature sensor. If it reads wrong, fuel will be scheduled incorrectly.
I'm not a big believer in cleaning the AMM. The hot wire on the AMM cleans itself. My experience with AMMs is that when they go bad, it goes bad in the electronics, and you aren't going to clean those. As a check, disconnect the front end (air filter side) of the AMM. Start the car and let it idle. Rev the engine over 2000 RPM for a few seconds, and let it return to idle. Then have an assistant shut off the key, while you look into the throat of the AMM. Between 4 and 20 seconds after shut-off, you should see the AMM wire glow brightly for a second or two. This is Burn-Off, which is a self-cleaning cycle. If you don't see that, then there may be a problem with the AMM, or with the engine control, which sends the AMM the burn-off signal. Some folks may clean the AMM if you did, I'd remove it from the hoses, to avoid getting too much cleaning solution in the intake.
posted by 192.249....
, Thu, 6 Feb 2003 08:55:58 <-- Viewing This Message, Thu, 6 Feb 2003 14:50:32
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