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Assuming you haven't fixed it already... Posted by Ari [Email] ![]() ![]() In Reply to: 90 9Ks- voltage drop from 13+ to nothing, Ryan ![]() |
YOu never mentioned the Battery light - did it come on at any point in time?
For simplicity, there is the Voltage regulator and brushes, and they're bolted into the back of the alternator. All the brushes do is give the electrical current a way to get from the moving part of the alternator to the part that isn't rotating. The job of the Voltage Regualtor is to, well, regulate the voltage. As an alternator spins faster, it outputs more voltage. Since car engines run at different speeds, this could make things interesting. The VR controls electromagnets inside the alternator so that the output voltage is pretty stable at all engine speeds.
There isn't a whole lot to go wrong inside an alternator - it's just wire and some bearings. If it doesn't make a sound like a spoon caught in a garbage disposal, the bearings are fine. The wire usually doesn't die. As the others have said, there are diodes, which are electrical one-way valves. If one of them dies, you'll get no voltage out from the alternator.
My approach is to replace the VR first. I can do it with the alternator in the car, so it's quick. You can pick one up for $40-$50, sometimes less. If that doesn't fix it, then it's the alternator. I'll buy a quality rebuilt unit, and pull the new VR out of the old alternator before I send it back as a core. Now I've got a spare VR, which is a good thing.
A shop can test the diodes in the alternator.
So - did the BAttery light come on when the voltage dropped?
posted by 12.90.160...
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