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Posted by shawn (more from shawn) on Mon, 5 May 2003 13:17:03 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Draining block, Rich, Mon, 5 May 2003 10:54:15
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see link...

here's the cut and paste from the end of the article:

FLUSHING, FILLING, BLEEDING

To flush the cooling system, find a suitable pan to catch the old coolant. Drain it first from the radiator drain. Be careful if the petcock seems tight not to damage the radiator. On 900s, the drain is on the right lower front of the radiator. Early ones have a 17 mm petcock with a 22 mm support hex. Later ones have a 24 mm plastic petcock. 9000s' have a petcock accessible from the bottom on the right side. They are hard to get to without removing the under panels and can become brittle and break. You might find it easier to remove the bottom hose on the water pump, below the AC compressor.

Make sure on cars with manual heat controls, that the temperature selection on the heater is set to hot. This opens the hot water valve and allows the flushing of the heater circuit and core. On 9000s, the heater circuit is open all the time, there is no need to set the temperature. After the most of the old coolant has drained, open the heater circuit by removing a heater hose and inserting a garden hose. Then you can proceed to flush the system by running water through the system until it comes out clear. This can take up to an hour. On a 900 with an 8 V engine, we remove the coolant hose running to the center of the intake and flushing through it into the heater. On 16 V 900s, remove the hose coming up from behind the AC compressor off a pipe running to the front of the head, flush through the end of that hose. On the 9000s' removing the smaller hose connecting to the rear of the head (facing the left side of the car) allows its heater core to be flushed through that hose. We flush the systems with the thermostat removed and replace it when finished. Swapping the point at which you place the garden hose, from the initial heater hose for the majority of the heavy work, to the reservoir to rinse it and its hoses, to the top radiator hose, anywhere you can stick it in the open system, will make sure no old coolant gets left lying around. When it all looks nice and clear, let the engine drain. Then shut up anything you have opened, getting the system ready for its new coolant.

Pour in the required amount of coolant, making sure to leave the manual heat controls on hot. On a 900, there is an air bleeder port on the thermostat housing. It has two 11 mm (7/16") hexes. Hold the lower one and loosen the top one to allow trapped air to escape the system. Fill with the coolant/water mixture until the reservoir is to the max line on 9000s and until a steady stream of coolant comes out of the air bleeder port on a 900. Then shut the bleeder port on a 900 and fill to the max line of the reservoir. Check for leaks. Then start the car and let it idle. Pay attention to the reservoir. If air comes up (it will), re adjust the level. Run the car until the fans cycle once. You might want to reopen the bleeder screw on a 900 after the car runs a few minutes just to make sure there is no trapped air. After the fans cycle, recheck and adjust the level at MAX if necessary. Replace the radiator cap and run the car until the fans cycle again and shut it off. Let it sit for 15-20 minutes and check for leaks after the system builds all the pressure it should. After a complete cool down, recheck the level. Do this again just to be sure after another temperature cycle.


posted by 24.93.196...

http://216.78.172.32/cooling_system_folder/coolingsys.htm


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