1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
First, check your vacuum hoses, to see if one of them has come loose, or popped off of it's attachment.
Next, to get the car started and running, you may have to depress the throttle pedal a bit and hold it there. It sounds like you're in limp home mode, and the throttle is now operating on the mechanical (cable) backup.
The cable can be tightened a bit; there are 2 loopholes where the cable attaches to the throttle, see if it's on it's tightest setting. You should also turn off headlights, radio, and other electrical drains on the car.
A sustainable idle in LHM is attainable, but just barely (300 RPM or so). If you have extra electrical drain, at those low RPMs the alternator doesn't make enough to run everything and the DI, so the car dies. Still you may have to give it a little gas to get the idle up enough that it doesn't die.
if you can get the car to idle, let it get good and warm. Then get out your Ohm meter and check the resistance on the saftey runoff valve and the control valve. These two valves are small black cylinders (approximately the size of a stack of 10 U.S. quarters - or 6 one-pound coins for the US/UK conversion) that have one electrical connector and 3 vacuum connectors.
The control valve is located on the driver's side (U.S.) inner fender, just in front of the battery. The safety runoff valve is mounted on the bulkhead, just to the left of the oil filler cap. The left-most vacuum connection on this device should be vented to ambient air.
On each of these, remove the clip, and disconnect the electrical socket. Check the resistance across the two prongs inside. If I remember correctly, the resistance should be somewhere between 30 - 200 ohms. If it's not in this range, you probably have a bad valve.
posted by 24.2.11...
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