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1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Murph,
I ordered the springs @ ZF, the manufacturer of the trans. But any shop can order them for you, even a dealer. What you need though is the serial number, which is on the plate on the torque convertor. IIRC they need the number with the '150' in it. There's more than one number, it doesn't hurt to take them down all.
The springs should cost only a couple of $$.
When I had the rev-up between 3 and 4, I cured that by just refreshing the fluid a couple of times. So only go this route if you're sure the tranny lives on the right amount of clean fluid.
I also found a small write-up still on my PC about changing the springs. And oh yes, you need a T27 torx bit. An other thing I remember is that based on the ZF drawings I put the L-shaped metal slab back on in an upside-down position. Result: I couldn't properly reseat the trans cover and lost quite some fluid. The protruding part should be at the low end. Remember how it all fits, or take some photographs if you have a digital camera.
Write-up:
Accumulator spring - If you have a turbo, you must have new o-rings to install the turbo assist pipe. Do not start the job without them. Remove only the LARGE TORX HEAD screws around the outside to free the valve body - leave the smaller head ones alone. You can pry off the turbo assist tube, if you have one, but DO NOT BEND IT! Try to ease it straight up and out.
Once the valve body is in your hands, turn it over and you will see the accumulator body. There are two chambers. The one on the right as you look at the cover plate with the main valve body down is the A accumulator - the one that the spring usually needs replacing. Remove three screws (top, bottom, and right side) and loosen the fourth (left side). Rotate the cover away from the right side chamber. A small piston, a large piston, and the spring should come out. Hold them with your finger to prevent them from springing out onto the ground. Replace the spring and push the large piston with the small piston inside back into the chamber. BE VERY CAREFULL to push it square into the chamber recess. The tolerances are very tight and if it is cocked to the side, it will jam and be very difficult to extract and reseat.
After you've buttoned up the chamber, the valve body must be reinstalled with the gear selector in the "1" position, and the selector rod in the A accumulator pushed all the way in.
The turbo assist pipe must be reinstalled with new o-rings. They cannot be damaged in the installation or the valve timing will be compromised and the transmission trashed. There is a special tool for this installation, but I've never used it. I use a soft-faced hammer and a lot of gentle tapping between the two ends of the tube.
It's best to have the gear selector in the "1" position BEFORE you remove the valve body. There is a set of right angled gears that operate the selector plunger on the valve body. The top one of these gears moves on a pin that seats in the valve body. If the valve body is removed, when you move the shifter, this gear can ride up and skip teeth with its corresponding partner. The proper relationship can be reset if you know what to do, but if you put the selector in "1" before you remove the valve body, you should not have to worry about its position (only that of the "A" accumulator plunger)when you reassemble.
posted by 145.7.20...
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