1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
 | [Main 9000 Bulletin Board | BBFAQ |
Prev by Date | Next by Date | Post Followup ]
Member Login / Signup - Members see fewer ads. - Latest Member Gallery Photos
Two bushings. Two approaches Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Tue, 3 Aug 2004 12:56:03
In Reply to: upper engine mounts (dogbone bushes?) really diy?, nathan [Profile/Gallery]
, Mon, 2 Aug 2004 21:16:06
Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup
|
The dogbone has one of the two bushings in it. I would bring it to a machine shop and have them press in the new one. I have done it myself with a tool made up of some properly-sized washers, heavy tubing, and threaded rod. I borrowed the tool from someone on the BB. I could see doing it on the bench with a big bench vise and something made up from the hardware store.
The part folks are missing is that the other bushing is mounted on the engine. That does not come off when the dogbone is replaced. I was successful in removing the bushing using the aforementioned tool. The new one went in cocked and jammed, and I had to cut it out.
My recommendation is to have the one on the dogbone pressed out by a shop, and a new one pressed in. For the $20 it should cost, it's well worth it.
Now, at this point you can re-install it and drive. Yes, the bushing on the engine will still be shot, but the car will be driveable.
As to the bushing on the engine, my approach would be to cut it out. As others have said, make two cuts maybe 1/2 inch apart. Yes, you may nick the bracket the bushing fits into. No big deal as long as it's a nick, and you haven't sawn through it. I used a jeweler's saw, which looks like a coping saw with a metal blade. With the two cuts made, knock out the cut piece with a screwdriver. You will still need some fixture to remove the bushing. Or, cut out another 1/2 inch piece opposite. Yeah, it sounds like a pain, but it's better to cut for 45 minutes than to wrangle with a home-made tool for 3 hours.
As to putting the new one in- here's a trick. I took a piece of threaded rod, stuck it through the bushing, and put bolts on either end. Then I stuck the rod in an electric drill, put on a work glove, and with wet/dry sandpaper in my hand, grabbed the bushing and turned the drill on. Yes, I took off a few thousandths of an inch of the bushing OD. I'd periodically stick it into a bucket of water to cool it off. Yes, it'll take a while, but again, it's better to do this for 1/2 hour than to futz for 3 hours. Relieve the outside edges of the bushing with a file. Eventually, you'll have brought the bushing down until it'll almost slide in. Now, give the bushing a light coating of lubricant (WD-40) and toss the bushing in the freezer for a couple of hours. Pull it out, and you should be able to push it in. If it starts to go in crooked, DON'T force it- knock it back out, and take of a few more thousandths. There is no need for the bushing to be a force fit. Yeah, you don't want 1/8 inch of play, but you won't have that. And the freezer trick is great- it contracts the bushing just a little.
posted by 192.249....
, Mon, 2 Aug 2004 21:16:06, Tue, 3 Aug 2004 22:29:17, Tue, 3 Aug 2004 12:56:03 <-- Viewing This Message, Tue, 3 Aug 2004 07:14:49
, Tue, 3 Aug 2004 18:54:46
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
