1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Here is a comparison between the stock Saab gauge and a VDO gauge:
30 Hg = low white (engine deceleration)
20 Hg = middle of white (engine idle)
0 psi = line between white & yellow (engine turned off)
5 psi = middle of yellow (base boost)
10 psi = middle of yellow/red dashes
15 psi = middle of red
20 psi = end/beyond of red
A stock '97 CSE should be able to just enter the red area on the gauge. That corresponds to approx. 12 psi, which your car is capable of reaching, but probably at its max. This depends upon the outside temp, humidity, fuel octane level, where the ECU is adapted at, etc.
The best scenario is:
cool, dry weather
premium fuel of 92 octane or higher
ECU adapted at the highest, aggressive level
Your BPV sounds okay, but again, you could never simulate the amount of vacuum and boost your engine is putting out. This means you could have a slight leak in the BPV that only becomes noticeable upon normal operation.
The CEL is pointing to the primary O2 sensor, the one next to the turbo. Fairly simple to remove and install, but takes a little grunt-work to get it started if it's the original one (which I'm sure it is). The other half to this job is snaking the wiring out and in again. Takes a little patience. Be sure to disconnect the correct plug since both O2 sensors are connected at the same holder. In my car, the primary is the bottom of the two (they're stacked on top of each other). It will have a black end; the grey end is for the secondary. You have to remove the connector by inserting a very small flat-bladed screwdriver into the sides of it to pull apart the red locking tabs, then squeeze the top and bottom of the connector to release the hold-down tabs to be able to pull it through the metal bracket. The wire itself is also attached to a metal tube with spring clamps/clips. This is against the pass. side of the engine, just behind the top of the serp belt. I had a tough time removing these clips. I never re-installed them, so just put them in the "left-overs" box.
Although there is different opinions about whether or not an adaptation run is required after replacing the O2 sensor, I believe it is necessary, and doesn't hurt anything. Look through the archives for the procedures on performing this. Since you have an auto, you need to keep the rpm's between 2750 and 3200 while the ECU adapts itself. You also need a big, long hill where a cop will not find you (you will be attaining some high speeds).
Check out site sponsors for the O2 sensor. Much cheaper that route.
Joe
posted by 12.111.48...
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