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To put a (new) cap on it.... Posted by Ari [Email] ![]() ![]() In Reply to: ari: what do you now think of this..., rsfeller, Tue, 17 Aug 2004 18:37:40 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
The low coolant sensor is not very reliable. I'll bet it isn't hooked up on your car, because most of the time it gives a false positive (says low coolant when the level is fine). The self-test when you turn the key to ON only test the light bulb.
The sensor is mounted into the bottom of the coolant reservoir. Make sure that it is inserted fully, and that the electrical connections are made. I'm pretty sure it's just a magnetic float inside the reservoir, and a reed switch sensor in a tube coming up through the bottom.
I think your problem is a bad coolant reservoir cap. The cooling system is supposed to operate under pressure, so the coolant actually runs above 212 F - it can do that because it's pressurized. If the cap is faulty, it won't hold pressure. When the car gets up to normal operating temp, the lack of pressure causes it to boil over. That also can explain why you're running low on coolant - the cap allows it to boil off. The cap should vent at high pressure (as a safety measure). Buy a new cap.
Water pumps usually leak before anything else. Yes, I've seen bad bearings, but the usual mode is for the seal to go first. Coolant comes out of the weep hole in the bottom (that's why it's there!) Usually it evaporates in the beginning, but as the leak gets worse, it eventually makes it to the ground. So I wouldn't expect to find a noisy pump before I found a very wet one.
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