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Re: fuel control module, Posted by Ari [Email] ![]() ![]() In Reply to: fuel control module, ari pls help, alexsacalis, Wed, 23 Mar 2005 13:10:26 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I assume that you paid the shop a diagnostic fee. At a minimum, they read out the fault codes. Now, it is possible that one of the codes did say "ECU fault".
When reading through the troubleshooting manual, when you get a fault code, there are a specific set of check the tech should do before declaring the ECU failed. Fault codes aren't infallable - they only point the tech in a direction (or three).
So the questions to ask Swedish Works are: Did they read fault codes? (and if not, get your money back!) EXACTLY what fault codes did they read? What additional tests did they do to verify the problem?
If you get nothing but a bushel of dumb, looks, go elsewhere. Getting the fault codes, if any, is the first step. And even at a troubleshooting charge of $65 or $75 and hour, that's a lot cheaper than replacing an ECU and finding out that wasn't the problem - but it was dusty, so replacing it was a good idea (caution - sarcasm in use).
As to what could be wrong, the others have some good ideas. One thing to consider - it may be more than one problem. We all like to think it is simply one busted widget, but sometimes it is two. My first question is, how long has this been going on? Did it happen suddenly, or is it getting worse over time? If it has been getting worse over time, it definitely could be two different problems. That's not as bad as it sounds, but that does mean don't get disappointed if fixing one thing doesn't make everything better.
Where would I start? Vacuum lines. Visually inspect all of them. Make sure the fat hose from the charcoal canister (conveniently buried in the front right fender) hasn't fallen off the purge valve on top of the canister. Removing the right front turn signal assembly will let you look in and see how the hose is doing.
Next - how old are the spark plugs? How do they look? If you can't answer that question definitively, replace them with the exact right NGKs listed in the manual - no substitutions! And make sure they are gapped per the manual - don't assume they come out of the package gapped right for your car.
Same with fuel and air filters - if you don't know the last time they were changed, or it was when a Democrat was in the White House, have them replaced.
Once you've 'baselined' the car - given it a tune-up, basically, then start looking at other issues. My first guess would be a bad AIC (idle control valve). It's located under the intake manifold, where it's hard to see. With the car turned ON but not started, you should hear it buzz. Don't confuse that buzz with the one from the ABS pump, over by the battery. A buzzing AIC isn't a guarantee that it's OK, but one that doesn't buzz is not a good sign.
For the start problem, does it not restart on the first try only when warm, or also when cold? If it is a warm restart problem, I'd suspect the two temperature sensors - one for intake air temp, the other for coolant temp. That could also explain the lumpy idle.
posted by 192.249....
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