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Re: Upper mount removal tool question Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Wed, 6 Apr 2005 05:55:13
In Reply to: Upper mount removal tool question, Pat98, Tue, 5 Apr 2005 15:15:17 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Yes, the bushing removal tool is designed to allow you to remove and replace the bushing while the engine-side mount is still on the engine. I have used it successfully in the past. Removing the old bushing is pretty easy with the tool.
Of course, it is easy (and necessary) to remove the chassis side bushing and 'dogbone', and you can use the tool to remove the bushing with the dogbone on a bench (a big vise helps).
The real trick is getting the new bushings in. The tool will do that for both the dogbone and engine-side mount. That is why some folks recommend the two-piece bushings - they go in very easily. The stock bushings are an interference fit, and if they go in even a hair cocked, they will bind and you'll never get them in. And since it take a lot of force to get the bushing in when it isn't cocked, telling 'normal' from 'bad' is hard until it is too late.
This isn't meant to scare you - many folks (including myself) have used the tool to put the stock bushings in. I recommend the following -
Make sure the inside of the mount is smooth, with no ridges. Relieve the metal edges of the bushing with a file - all smooth edges, less chance of grabbing. In the past, I have even smoothed down the surface of the bushing - I stick a threaded rod through the center of the bushing, with nuts on it to clamp it. Then stick the rod in an electric drill, and holding wet/dry sandpaper in a gloved hand, spin the bushing with the drill while holding the bushing with the sandpaper. Taking a few thousandths off the bushing won't hurt it a bit. I'll hit the mount with some WD-40 for lubrication. And lastly, I stick the bushing in the freezer for an hour or two to make it even smaller.
The dogbone side bushing usually goes in much easier, because there is much less metal there, less resistance and less chance of cocking. I'd still relieve all the edges with a file.
Lastly, make sure you line up the bushings correctly. The stock bushings are rubber filled, but there are two large gaps in the rubber for compliance. You want the gaps on the front and rear side of the bushing when inserted. The upper mount is a torque control rod, and most of the engine motion is front-to-back. By putting the gaps in the front and rear side of the bushing, the bushing will flex under engine motion. You want that to limit vibration.
posted by 192.249....
, Wed, 6 Apr 2005 05:55:13 <-- Viewing This Message
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