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Re: Water Pump Drip Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Fri, 17 Jun 2005 06:04:44
In Reply to: Water Pump Drip, JoMoWeb, Thu, 16 Jun 2005 16:28:41 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
A few points-
Your '88 has the two belt setup with a manually adjusted tension. That is very easy to work with. Most writeups talk about the later cars with the automatic tensioner, which takes more work.
If your new pump doesn't come with a pulley (and most don't), do yourself a favor and SLIGHTLY LOOSEN the bolts on the water pump pulley BEFORE you remove the belt. THe belt will help keep the pulley from moving. Nice trick. If the pulley spins anyway, use a screwdriver wedged between two of the bolt heads to loosen the others.
For ease, remove both belts. The AC belt comes off by moving the AC belt tensioner pulley. Moving, not removing. It has a 13 mm bolt and a 17mm bolt. Put one wrench on the 17, and loosen the 13. The pulley will then slide down as the 17mm moves, and you can take the AC belt off. The S-belt is removed by loosening the tensioner bolt - it's a bolt on a threaded rod that points towards the front of the engine. Do yourself a favor and before you remove any belts, WRITE DOWN the belt path, and which grooves the AC belt fits into the pulley. DOn't assume you'll remember.
Of course, you have the fender inner liner removed. You can replace the water pump without doing this, but you will spend an extra 2-4 hours.
If you don't know when the belts were last replaced, replace them. They're cheap. And while you're at it, give the AC belt idler pulley and S-belt idler pulley a spin. The bearings on those pulleys can fail. You'll know a bad pulley when you turn it - it will feel loose, wobble, and generally feel like the bearings are square. Give the Alternator a spin while you're at it.
Inspect the main pulley - aka Harmonic Balancer. It has an inner and outer metal portion, with a thin rubber strip in the middle. (inner portion is attached to the crankshaft; the outer drives the belts.) Does the rubber strip look OK, or is it cracked and buldging out? does the plane of the outer pulley line up with that of the inner pulley, or does it look offset? That rubber can fail, and the outer pulley start to move with respect to the inner portion. If the Pulley looks shot, replace it. Not cheap, but the failure isn't fun.
Last time I did this, I left the turbo pipe attached to the turbo. You're going to have to attach that pipe in somewhere - I think you have better visibility at the water pump.
As to coolant - it depends on the car. If you've been running 50-50 ordinary Prestone or the like, and the car has lots of miles, as Pierre says, chances are things are clogged already. The expensive stuff will help, but it won't clean out the radiator or remove corrosion from the head. Are you planning on keeping the car for the next ten years, or is it a goner on the next expensive repair? If I had just done a head job and replaced the radiator, I'd run the good MB stuff. If it appears to cool OK (before running out of coolant), I'd run 50-50 Prestone, and be good about flushing the system every 2-3 years.
posted by 192.249....
, Fri, 17 Jun 2005 06:04:44 <-- Viewing This Message, Fri, 17 Jun 2005 06:06:51, Fri, 17 Jun 2005 10:05:59
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