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Window Switches / Switchpack Cleaning and Reassembly
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Posted by AeroLomo (more from AeroLomo) on Mon, 17 Oct 2005 08:00:06 Share Post by Email
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I worte this because I had trouble finding a clear, definitive writeup for the later model 9000 switchpack that controls the locks, windows and sunroof. Maybe there is already a clear one out there, but I wasn't able to find it. This is for all of those people who dropped all 12 rockers on the floor getting it open. It should be easy to see where to open this, so I'll just include the info getting the rocker switches back togethe in the right way.

-There are 12 total rocker switches, in four different types.
--there are 2 of the outer front window types that hit the third contact for the auto-down feature
--there is one of the on/off switch for the back windows (easy to identify)
--there is one lock switch with two notches (also easy to ID)
--There are 8 of the "normal" switches for the windows and sunroof.

The sunroof and rear windows take the normal switches. That's easy.

The lock takes the one double notched switch. That's also easy.

The on/off switch takes the shorter single contact switch. Easy.

The two switches that seem slightly larger and have an indent in them are the other front window switches (two per window, of course). They go on the outer part of the assembly (far port and far starboard) for the front windows. You'll see the third, spring-like contact hanging above where these two rocker switches go. The third contact, or spring, hangs above the rocker switches so that when the front windows are pushed down, the other end of the rocker hits the bottom of the spring and gives the command for auto-down. They have to be low enough so the rocker hits them, but not so low that they contact the rocker switches all the time.

Also, if you reinstall the switchpack and realize that the front windows don't work, you most likely blew the "f window" fuse. Replace it and try again. If you blow it continuously, make sure that the third contact is not shorting out on the rocker switch, and that nothing got forced out of place when you put the whole thing back together.

I cleaned the rocker switches (by now you've probably figured out that I am calling the copper "v" thingys "rocker switches") with contact cleaner and had to scrape the carbon off of most of the contacts on the board and the rockers. It wouldn't be a bad idea to use an electrically conductive lubricant like WD-40 to protect against corrosion. Don't overdo it, however.

Ian

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