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a little while. You can short-cut the following, but you'll just have to futz with it all again sooner.
You have to take off the door panel and the latch block and do some lubrication. I used white grease in a spray can with the little thin tube attached to get into all the moving parts.
There are some linkages inside the door that get corroded, so you spray them and move the inner and outer door handles until things move smoothly. You'll use a fair amount of grease.
The actual latch is a 1/2" thick 2" square block on the back side of the door. Remove this and squirt white grease into it while working the two little tabs that fit into the door. Get that working smoothly.
When you reinstall the latch block be sure the lower tab lines up correctly with a little nylon slide inside the door latch linkage. You may have to use one hand to move the nylon slide so the tab will line up right.
You can test the latch block with the door open by closing the latch jaws in the block by hand, then pulling on the outside door handle. You may find that the inside handle doesn't work that way, as it seems to like the added pressure of the bar in the striker plate on the car, so you might have to test it with the door closed.
You may also have to adjust inner door handle. It is held in with a couple of screws and you can adjust it so it is a little further forward. I'm not sure if this really helps, but it's worth a shot. This seems to add to the range of motion of part of the linkage.
Test everything before you put the door panel back on. BTW, the Haynes manual has a good description of how to take the door panel off. Just a few screws.
Once you are done, use the white grease to lube the front door latch blocks as well. Just squirt grease into the area around the jaws and it will keep them moving okay.
Hope this helps. Once you've done this, and if you lube your locks annually, it shouldn't happen again.
posted by 69.163.38...
, Tue, 29 Nov 2005 11:25:18
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