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Re: ARI - More Questions. Light Didn't Come on During Test Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Thu, 26 Jan 2006 09:42:37
In Reply to: ARI - More Questions. Light Didn't Come on During Test, Peter Ingram, Thu, 26 Jan 2006 08:09:48 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
The connectors can go bad, but that's usually obvious. I've seen the wires 'rot', but usually on the portion of the wire that is outside of the cable, and just hanging in space. If the wire looks good physically, it's probably good. If it looks like a cat has been chewing on it, I'd replace it. Usually, that means following it back into cable harness just an inch or two (cut back some of the harness sheathing [CAREFULLY]), and splice in there. The cable harness sheathing usually protects the wire well.
For wire, almost any stranded wire would work. Hookup wire, speaker wire, both OK. I would use 20 or 18 gauge wire - nothing bigger or smaller. There isn't much current flow, so the wire gauge isn't critical for a short run. But much smaller than 20 gauge is pretty flimsy and can be mechanically damaged; larger than 18 gauge (like 16) is getting pretty big and a pain to work with.
Any grounding point (chassis, engine, dogbone) should be fine. All of those points should be pretty good grounds, and this test is pretty much go/no-go.
I don't remember the exact specs on the bulb, but I'm pretty sure it's 12 VOLTS at 1.2 WATTS. It's a different bulb than the others used for dash lighting.
If I were in your place, these would be my next steps:
Disconnect the green wire from the alternator, and measure the voltage on the wire (referenced to ground) with the key ON. I assume you'll get 12 volts (or so).
Next, make sure you have a meter that can read current. Set it to the 1 amp or greater range. Touch one lead to the green wire, and the other lead to ground. With the key ON, read the current.
If it's 0, I have no idea what is up. But make sure the fuse in the meter didn't blow (see 'well above 100 ma, below). I have to assume there is an open circuit to the bulb in the dash, but I can't explain why the alternator works.
If it's well under 100 ma, like 30 or 50 ma, then you have the wrong bulb. Replace with the proper bulb.
If it is around 100 ma (give or take 20 or 30 ma), then somebody modified your car. I assume you aren't the original owner of the car. You've noted that you've never see the bulb come on. If everything seems to be working, it is possible that sometime in the past, a previous owner simply wired around the bulb, as he/she/it had no idea how to access it. They may have simply found a wire that is hot when the key is ON, and spliced in a resistor of the proper size (around 100 - 120 ohms). It works just fine, but you don't get the BAT light warning.
If it's well above 100 ma, or the meter reads 0 because the fuse blows, then (1) the bulb is shorted, (2) somebody modified the wiring to connect the green wire directly to a switched 12 volt source. You may find that something else has blown, like a radio fuse.
Concerning the green wire:
Inspect the thin green wire carefully. If you suspect it in any way, carefully cut back the harness sheathing the wire disappears into , and cut the wire back to where it is protected by the harness. Look into the end of the wire - the copper should be shiny. If it's grungy and filled with a whitish or greenish powder, the wire is rotted. Splice in a new piece of wire. I'd get some hookup wire from an autoparts store or a Radio Shack. Touch it to ground with the key ON, and see what happens.
If the bulb still doesn't come on, then I'd go into the dash and find out why. Yes, it sucks. For this, I'd even consider going to the dealer to buy the bulb. Pull the bulb out, and do an ohm check with a meter from the contacts of the bulb and the green wire (power off, green wire disconnected from alternator). Which contact goes to the green wire? Darned if I know. Try both. Make sure the contacts in the connector at the bottom of the EDU board are clean. If you don't get continuity from the green wire to either bulb contact, then:
(1) make sure you've got the right bulb connector!
(2) start tracing the wire back
After you establish the bulb connection to the green wire, go to the other bulb connection, and with your meter set to volts, make sure you get 12 volts (or battery voltage, give or take) at the other bulb connection with the key ON.
I'm suspecting that either you have the wrong bulb, or somebody modified the wiring on you - either a direct connection to switched power, or through a resistor.
posted by 192.249....
, Thu, 26 Jan 2006 06:32:07, Thu, 26 Jan 2006 09:42:37 <-- Viewing This Message
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