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OK, reporting back now...
Posted by Andy (West London) [Email] (more from Andy (West London)) on Wed, 22 Feb 2006 14:50:12
In Reply to: Many thanks David, I'll try that and report back, Andy (West London), Sun, 5 Feb 2006 00:38:46
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Since I last posted, I have swapped the temp sensor from my parts car (turns out they are both 1996 cars based on the VIN decoder!). For anyone reading this thread to fix a problem with Temp sensor, the one you replace is the one that is in the side of the head nearest the transmission. Brassy thing with two wires that feed behind head to an in-line connector underneath the inlet manifold. You don't need to drain coolant, just be quick to get the replacement back in when the old one comes out, although have a rag underneath it to stop coolant getting in transmission. This not only fixed my intermittently low/no reading on temp gauge, but also stopped the radiator fan coming on as soon as ignition turns on, as well as it running for a good few minutes after turning the car off. Other posts on this board explain that as the ECU is getting no reading from temp sensor, those clever Swedes set it so that the ECU assumes the worst and runs the fan, just to prevent overheating.
Great to have a working temp gauge, but It looks like thermostat is stuck open (car takes a good 10 minutes to work up to normal 8:30 temp).
Re the hooter/dump valve being suspected as my problem with rough idle (not erratic, just vibration at idle-sits where it should at 850 RPM- The previous owner replaced the stock bosch hooter valve with a baileys atmospheric piston type dump valve. I've seen posts that mention issues with fitting non-recirculating dump valves (something about confusing the MAP sensor?), but someone else suggested that as long as they are piston type it is OK. Bit confused. should I swap the bosch hooter valve from my parts car? or am I clutching at straws?
posted by 82.43.128...
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