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Also, since the subject has come up >
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Posted by Bill Davies [Email] (more from Bill Davies) on Tue, 6 Jun 2006 11:32:31 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Thanks! (nm), Orhan, Mon, 5 Jun 2006 15:10:53
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The strut is a clever, light and economical design which effectively makes the strut into the kingpin for the steering, another reason why good quality and proper top bearings are a good idea. I believe that Aeros used to have slightly thicker struts for even greater strength and stability when "pressing on" through corners, but the standard items really seem pretty good.

The rear beam axle on the 9000 is another clever and simple design which keeps the wheels perpendicular to the road, and the springs and dampers aren't doing anything much to locate it, so changing them is pretty easy (so long as you can get the lower bolts out!).

To be really annoying - we should be saying "dampers" rather than "shocks" or "shock absorbers". The springs are dealing with road shocks and the dampers are controlling the suspension movement. So, to quote a recent article in "Classic Cars" magazine, the dampers will resist big, slow movements more than small fast ones, and will damp the suspension's return or 'rebound' movements much more firmly than the bump movements.

It follows that if you stiffen the springs you should change the dampers to suit. And because stiffening the rear end will increase oversteer, and stiffening the front increases understeer, it's a good idea to fix or upgrade both ends at the same time - including all the bushes as dboone says.

Proper suspension engineers will play with the bushes to fine-tune a car's handling. Many 9000 owners use poly bushes to replace worn rubber ones, and one bit of 'tuning' easily available is to fit poly bushes to the mounting bushes of the rear anti-roll (sway) bar but new rubber ones to the front bar. This helps the rear end round a little by slightly stiffening it, and cuts down the slight lurch as a 9000 settles into a corner.


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