1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
hi, there is a circuit that won't allow the compressor to run if the gas charge is too low (i.e. emtpy). rememeber there is oil in the gas mixture too, so no gas/oil and allowing the compressor to run is bad - a burned up compressor. so they protect us from us...
to jump the compressor to *test* it briefly you'll need a jumper wire (I like the aligator clips on both ends style) of about 18 gauge wire. any thinner wire might get hot and melt. on the top of the compressor is a single wire, there is a disconnect that is inline and usually pushed into a clip (keeper) to prevent it from moving around. open that connector, attach one end of the jumper to the wire to the compressor, source 12v somewhere (battery is close) and attach - it should click - this let's you know that clutch on the compressor is working.
Start car, turn AC on, if the compressor clutch doesn't "click" to engage (this is with the wire still connected without the jumper setup) you can open the connector as above, attach the jumper and the compressor clutch should engage. You most likely won't get cold air, most likely out of get cold gas, but you can check. Don't run too long for the compressors sake... if you have R134 you can DIY to recharge, get the can with oil and leak fix. R-12 was last used in US in 1993 models. R-12 connections on the compressor have equal size caps on the suction (low side) and compression (high side) ** stay away from the high side in any compressor ** and if you remove a cap you will see the center pin of the valve - looks just like a tire air valve - that's most likely R-12. R-134 usually has a blue or black and a red cap. they are of slightly different sizes. if you remove the cap you can only see an opening, a schrader valve pin is not visible. this is the kind you can get at autoparts DIY and follow the instructions with the stuff. If it won't hold a charge you've got bigger issues bucky!
posted by 72.192.144...
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