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You didn't mention a battery light Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Mon, 14 Aug 2006 09:27:13
In Reply to: AC dies, then Instrument Panel, Battery has no voltage, Richard Chang, Sat, 12 Aug 2006 02:49:50 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
First - was the battery light ON prior to the engine dying?
Second - was the battery light working at all?
In an ideal world we all turn the key to ON, check that all the bulbs light up, and then start the car. Don't we all? OK, maybe not. But if there is a problem with the Battery light circuit, the alternator won't put out voltage, and the battery will run out of juice. The nasty part about this failure is that since the problem is with the battery light circuit, it doesn't give you warning. Only by verifying the light comes on before starting can you check it.
IF the battery light wasn't giving you any warning, I'd start there. First, get the battery charged up. Then turn the key to ON and make sure the BAT light comes on. If not, see if the thin green (or yellow) wire from the back of the alternator is still in place. Verify the bulb hasn't burned out. Make sure the alternator body is well grounded - it's tough not to, but I have to say it.
If the Battery light was working, then you'd have to keep looking. Make sure the power and grounds to the battery are good. Make sure the wire from the battery to the alternator is good.
If it were an alternator/VR problem alone, you'd get a BAT light. If you did have a BAT light and all the wiring checks out, I'd start with replacing the VR. Most of the time there is no problem with the alternator itself. Rarely a diode pack inside the alternator will die, and at that point a new (rebuilt, actually) alternator is the way. But alternators usually don't die - it's the VR.
posted by 192.249....
, Mon, 14 Aug 2006 09:27:13 <-- Viewing This Message
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