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Re: Five questions on my '96 SAAB 9000 CSE Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Mon, 4 Dec 2006 05:59:45
In Reply to: Re: Five questions on my '96 SAAB 9000 CSE, Mary in Maine, Sat, 2 Dec 2006 12:33:33 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
OK, I'm going to bet that the grinding noise is just your rear brakes. It is normal for brake rotors to develop a little rust, even in the course of a day or so. Especially if it has been wet. When you apply the brakes, the sound of the pads on the rust sounds like metal on metal (I assume you've checked the rear brake pads to make sure they are thick enough!). When you take your foot off the brake, the pads don't spring back - the pressure releases, and the imperfections in the rotor push them back. But the rust can still cause some scraping sounds. Does the grinding noise seem to be connected with how fast you are moving? If it's just rust, no big deal. You might have a slightly dragging caliper. At a minimum, if the brake fluid hasn't been flushed in the car in the past 2-3 years, have that done. That should be done on any car every 2 years, three at most.
The central locking works by sending a one second pulse of current to actuators (motors) in the doors. Current in one direction locks, current in the other, unlocks. The actuators move levers, the same levers that connect to the buttons on top of the door. Over time, the lever mechanism inside the door can get sticky, and the push of the actuator isn't always enough to lock or unlock the door. I'll bet that with the mysterious locking, you hit the lock button earlier, but the force wasn't enough to lock the door. But the mechanism was teetering on the edge, and bump or the shock of shutting off the engine was enough. It could also be a poor connection at the central locking module so it can't send enough current to the motors to work. A '96 CSE will have central locking on the gas cap - I assume that's been working just fine.
Two things to do - the easier is to unplug and re-plug in the central locking module (I believe it's behind the center console on the passenger side - I'd have to check). That action re-seats the connector and cleans the contacts a little. The more difficult job is to remove the door panels and to lubricate the locking mechanism in each door.
The dome light shares the fuse with the central locking, so that was just a quick and easy way to know if the fuse was OK. They blow quite often.
posted by 192.249....
, Wed, 29 Nov 2006 11:57:54, Mon, 4 Dec 2006 05:59:45 <-- Viewing This Message
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