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Re: Thanks & an evacuation question Posted by vtsnaab [Email] (#26) [Profile/Gallery] (more from vtsnaab) on Wed, 16 Apr 2008 22:32:58 In Reply to: Thanks & an evacuation question, tz, Wed, 16 Apr 2008 11:09:20 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
TZ,
I have done this even more ways than mentioned here - and aside of making
double-doggone certain that you know where the high and low sides are and
having a passing understanding of how A/C works (If they don't -make cold-,
then what do they do, exactly ?), I would say it is the dealer's choice
of which method to use, really.
The important points:
Air pockets are BAD in a freon system.
H2O + some freon + heat makes a deadly gas whose name I have forgotten.
Freon and water are used together in some systems but NOT in your A/C.
Moisture in auto A/C is a bad idea - hence the inline driers in them...
R134a is cheap, cheap, cheap and easily found.
Replacing parts (except maybe the evaporator) in older cars is no biggie.
Used parts for older Saab A/C can be had cheaply if one looks around.
The WORST part of Saab A/C work is the aluminium with threads they use.
Careful dis- and re-assembly can avoid LOTS of tooth grinding later.
SO:
You do your repair and neither evacuate nor gas purge and you end up
with a fried compressor as a result...is this the end of the world ?
Nope.
You clean the krap out of the system and put in a used compressor.
Big whoop.
OR:
You connect the freon can to the high side because you didn't check it
and you blow your face off - now THIS *is* a big deal, and likely
NOT a course of action you'd enjoy very much.
BUT, consider this:
IF you have a good air compressor and a bunch of cars all needing A/C
and service at some point, why not get inexpensively equipped and
educated and over time have good A/C at lower costs ?
I considered getting a 'real' vac pump, but frankly the venturi unit
is kind of cool and works very, very well at a huge discount, and it
is no advantage to me to have a $300 - $800 lump sitting around with
old oil in it when I can have a maintenance-free gizmo that does a
very good job for only $30 instead.
Gauges and proper adapters however are a MUST in my opinion, as well
as knowing what you are looking at when you do it - it is NOT rocket
science or even difficult once you have done it and learned a bit.
There are entirely TOO many folks who make a big deal of this work in
*my own* personal opinion; doing a cylinder head job is 1000 times
more difficult than making your A/C work right - again - in MY opinion.
(And the Chinese fingercuffs job of heater core replacement ?)
((Fuggedaboudit !))
Please keep us posted here as to your chosen route and progress, OK ?
Best Wishes,
mark
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