1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
You'll need an engine lift. Not that a contraption made from wood from overhead won't work. It probably will be a few times more time consuming and the same magnitude in difficulty. Keep in mind both front wheels are removed before you remove the engine. If you want to roll the car away after lifting the engine up you need to put the wheels back on. There are two other issues if you insist on using a stationary wood frame. First the hood need to be removed. And then it will be more difficult to tilt the engine as you lower it in the engine compartment.
Come to think of it you really do not need the shop manual if you do not plan to take the engine apart. I can list all of the connections from memory.
Electrical: battery cable, AC compressor, coolant temperature on the radiator (for MY up to 94), ABS harness, Main wiring harness (located in the driver side corner of between the windshield and the battery, radiator fan, and air temperature sensor, backup light switch connector on the gear bos.
Mechanical: drive shafts, throttle cable, air inlet hoses (to the throttle body and the turbocharger), clutch hydraulic tubing, shift rod to gear box connection (shift cable for automatic), vacuum hoses to the turbocharger, engine oil cooler (I strongly recommend lifting the drive train with the engine oil cooler attached), AC compressor, exhaust pipe, power steering pump, engine mounts (four connections, top, front, rear and gear box).
Coolant: hoses to and from the heater core, radiator top hose, coolant hoses to the water pump (two). I'd remove the radiator to give more room lifting the drive train.
Fuel and other: fuel supply and return, air pump connection to the intake manifold.
Search the archive. This has been well documented.
posted by 12.31.1...
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