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I just did this yesterday to my '96 CS's harmonic balancer pulley, as kind of preventive maintenance.
It is possible the pulley had spun some or was ready to. It has been massively oil soaked for quite a while and rubber was bulging out at front and back. But I haven't heard any screaming.
Anyways as I had it off to replace the main seal, I figured I sure don't want to have to shell out big bux for a new one if this thing goes to heck on me some day, as well as having to pull things back apart. So I made it "semi hardtail," you could say.
I did this a few years back on one of my C900s. The 9000 was a little more of a challenge due to the multi-ribs of the pulley grooves.
What I do is, drill into the pulley face at 3 equal points, midway between the spokes, then push tension pins into the holes, then flare the inner end of the tension pins where they come thru, and daub with a tough epoxy I have, 3M DP420, to make sure the pins don't move any. Out of pocket cost, 3 pins at 29 cents each equals 87 cents, plus a little glue, total maybe a dollar counting tax.
I realize this sort of dumbs down the "harmonic balancing" part of the pulley, but I doubt it's any real risk. The thing is still damped big time - - tap it with a hammer and it sure doesn't ring like a bell. The tension pins allow a little flex and it's still the rubber doing most of the work, just a little stop applied in case the thing ever wants to start moving.
Here's what I did for anyone cheap enough and game enough to try it:
Cleaned pulley really well, rag, solvent and rag, detergent and water with scrub brush. Then sandpapered the inside surface between the spokes so it was clean and rust free enough to accept the glue well.
I bought three 3/16" x 3/4" roll pins at my local hardware store, set up a 3/l6" bit in my drill press (Taiwan-made Delta), carefully marked the pulley with three scribes on its face, midway between spokes by laying a ruler up the middle of the opposite spoke, checked that all three were equal distance from the others to make sure things were balanced.
Then I set it up in my (also Taiwanese and cheesy) drill press vise, drilled right down into the middle of the THIRD belt groove in, not quite centered side to side but best I could since there are six grooves). Grey cast iron drills almost like butter. Did all three holes, then took a tiny knife-shaped Swiss file I had and worked on the edges of the holes so everything was rounded - - no sharp burrs to chew the belt.
Then pushed the roll pins in, tapping with a hammer and a 3/16" pin punch or you could use a blunted nail. Pushed the pins down till their tops were just BELOW the bottom of the belt grooves, with the split side facing the REAR of the pulley. This leaves about 1/8" of the pin sticking out in the interior.
Next I set the pulley face down on a firm surface, took a hammer and my smallest Snap-On screwdriver, and drove it into the split in the sticking-out part of the tension pins, and bent it left and right to flare the inner ends out so they would have no tendency to work and move up into the belt over time. Screwdriver looks fine still - - don't tell Snap-On.
Then I spread a good gob of my epoxy on each of the three inner ends to also help anchor them.
Back on and working fine now.
posted by 64.222.202...
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