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Re: UV vs. yellow, $, time and/or melted owner. Posted by vtsnaab [Email]  (#26)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from vtsnaab) on Fri, 28 May 2010 02:47:49
In Reply to: Re: re-incarnate A/C ?, Simon S, Thu, 27 May 2010 10:21:05 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Hello Bstan9k.
I have reincarnated my a/c on all my 9KTs but one where the parts were not fit-able for some reason...
The most common leaks I have seen are in 2 places:
The condensor itself and the lines where rubber has been crimped over aluminium.
Condensors see alot of road-spray and handle alot of pressure, so if yours looks cosmetically bad - it likely has pinholes scattered throughout.
The lines are kind of nasty - but not hopeless.
Upon finding a loose line connection at one of those joints it IS possible to very, very carefully remove the crimped collar, cut back the line as little as you can get away with - and re-secure using ->3<- SS hose clamps.
(Additionally I've coated mine inside with a thin layer of Leak-Lok and added cloth tape around the outside to help distribute the extreme clamp tightness needed to hold in gas...)
My last such repair held for 2 years until I changed cars and may still be fine for all I know.
O-rings are a contentious subject - and here's my 2 cents:
If a connection ain't leaking - DON'T OPEN IT AT ALL !!!
Putting new O-rings in non-leaky joints is like putting a BIG sign on your back that says 'Kick me, PLEASE !?'
IF the condensor is bad and you go to replace it - the bottom line connection can be murder to remove w/o snapping off the line that wants to move with the nut - my davice is to liberally bathe it with Kroil 3x before ever turning it and also while making the critical 1st loosening turn when you do try it - just go VERY slowly and be VERY careful !!!
Working on a/c on a hot day is miserable and likely to come with compromised attention, especially if done in the full sun; makes it hard to see things like yellow dyed leaks - impossible to see UV marked leaks with a small hand light and being all sweaty does NOT help at all.
My point in all that is that if you have a reasonably cool day where you can work under cover - vac the system down - charge it reasonably full and add the yellow dye to it, you have a chance that you may see any fast leaks.
Not so with slow ones - they take too long to show.
My method with my own car, currently:
The local biglots has R-134a just like the other places do, but for $5/can.
They also have the system leak sealer w/ yellow dye for about $6/can.
My car has a slow leak for sure.
I have all the tools I need except daily use of a garage, so-> I just buy 5 - 7 cans of R-134a and 2 of sealer, and add some as needed to maintain the charge.
What I bought should be enough to last the summer out.
Come fall, with cooler days and less glare I may attempt to find the leaky joint, and by then it may be revealed that a compressor seal is shot too, but unless there is a fast leak I will not try to find it in the summer.
I know I will get sworn at by folks for being un-environmental, but that is better than getting heat sickness just from driving back and forth to work, so I'll live with it easily enough.
Best Wishes,
mark
, Thu, 27 May 2010 10:18:52, Fri, 28 May 2010 02:47:49 <-- Viewing This Message, Fri, 28 May 2010 05:48:24, Fri, 28 May 2010 08:21:54
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