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Re: Any tricks/tips for ABS Sensor removal? Posted by sam96CS [Email]  (#852) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from sam96CS) on Mon, 6 Dec 2010 07:18:59
In Reply to: Any tricks/tips for ABS Sensor removal?, RayV, Sun, 5 Dec 2010 19:23:07 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Before removing any sensors, does the ABS light ever stay on after startup? Mine was usually turning off after startup, then turning on after the car moved. But occasionally it would stay on after startup. If that ever happens, then immediately test the connections at the ABS module (engine off) will pinpoint which sensor is on the hairy edge. And you'll find the problem without damaging sensors at the wheels. The testing is done with an ohm meter, and normal sensors have a reading of about 1100 ohms (give or take 100 ohms, so any reading between 1000 and 1200 ohms is okay).
If the ABS light comes on again after the car moves with no exceptions, then examine the exposed ABS sensor cables in the wheel wells. Best way to do this is with a spray bottle filled with water and some clean paper towels. Spray a section of cable, wipe it clean gently with a paper towel. In this process you may find a cable damaged by road debris or (in the front) repeated flexing as the wheel turns.
Pulling the sensors to clean them and the shutter wheels is the next course of action. Sorry about the long intro if you already know this.
Removing the 10 mm bolt that secures the sensor is easy, just make sure you don't lose the washer which prevents the head of the bolt from damaging the sensor. The sensor probably will not be willing to come out of the hole, especially at the front wheels. Make no effort to pull it out of the hole until you can rotate it fairly easily by hand while it is still fully inside the hole. It may take a lot of effort at first to rotate the front sensors back and forth. The driver side will probably be easier than the passenger side (USA cars). Gentle prying with a screwdriver may be required at first to make it rotate, but don't try to pry it out, only from side to side. A penetrating lubricant like PB Blaster may help, but I was able to do it dry. After the sensor will rotate back and forth fairly easily by hand you can pry gently with a screwdriver under the end where the cable is attached. Pry a little, rotate a little, pry a little more, etc. The front sensors will come out along with a split plastic sleeve. Save the sleeve. Without the sleeve the sensor will probably stick to the rusty hole. My rear sensors didn't have sleeves, and were much easier to remove.
In my case removing the sensors was a complete waste of time and an unnecessary risk. My right front was on the hairy edge due to damage to the cable in the wheel well probably caused by road debris. Wrapping the damaged location with electrical tape helped temporarily, long enough to pass NC inspection.
Old sensor cable have an outer jacket that is likely to crack and flake off near the sensor despite your best efforts. I wrapped mine with electrical tape to help keep dirt and moisture away from places where the outer jacket was damaged or missing. I don't know if the tape helped, but it hasn't hurt anything.
, Mon, 6 Dec 2010 07:18:59 <-- Viewing This Message
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