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Some thoughts on swapping seats
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Posted by RayF (more from RayF) on Wed, 16 Nov 2011 14:00:09 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Seat wiring harnesses--any gotchas in a swap?, Noel, Tue, 15 Nov 2011 08:16:53
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Noel - -

I've dug into this recently and have a pair of Aero front seats on my back porch, so I went and looked at them to offer what thoughts I could.

You're right the seats would swap side to side as they are symmetrical and the bottom rails and bolt holes are identical.

I'd suggest making up some kind of a bracket and mounting the seat control switches below the front skirt of each seat. And leaving memory unit on old driver-new passenger seat, mounting it down front too.

Where you'd have some trouble is with the seat skirts, which you're right aren't symmetrical. The seats are held on with a heavy wire bail that runs in the hem of the skirts, hooks at rear on frame at each side, and is then hog-ringed onto a wire that's part of the foam cushion support, at front lip of seat.

If you went to mount the seat controls on what's now the inner side, you'd have to hack up the seat skirt where they'd go, and I think cut right through the heavy hold-down wire and remove some of it. Then if you wanted to mount the outer-side plastic shroud, you could get the three screws in but its upper lip is a good bit of what holds it in, and that presently tucks up under the seat hem and its wire reinforcement. That wire wouldn't be there on your swapped seats, but rather way lower down on the seat, and also cut in two if I'm right in my eyeballing of it.

Which is why I suggest making a bracket that would hold the seat controls down below the front edge of the seat. Outer side would have the present inner side's long naugahyde skirt, inner side would have the short skirt and no shroud, but sit up alongside center console and hardly be visible.

You CAN swap all the wiring across from driver to passenger seat, if you want to tackle it. That involves removing the sensors off the back of each motor. To get memory seat function on driver side you'd have to do this.

Also, as to seat belts, the mounts on each side at rear are identical so you could bolt the belt end where the seat belt receiving latch is now belted, and vice versa. But there's also wiring to the latch to show if seat belt is truly buckled, and you'd have to reroute that under the seat and across and up the other side.

A final thought, I guess there's enough "rope" to the electrical connectors to the power sources to reach if seats are swapped, but you might want to try this first before investing any extra effort.

On the Aero, a side-to-side skin swap would be easier than on a CS or CSE since the back of the seats zips wide open up each side so you can reach the hooks that hold the skins to the frame. I have pulled a seat back skin and sewed up the hole for the lumbar support knob, which is actually a T-shaped cut. End result looks fine. I just need to make a cut on its other side and find the time to pull my driver seat to swap it on. No fun on a CS.

On the bottom, you would have to deal with the skirts not fitting, but I think the longer side could be hand-stitched and cut down to mirror the short side, and the present short side hems opened out and a little material added to mirror the present long side, and not be noticeable.



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