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, Mon, 12 Nov 2012 10:07:37
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I assume you're talking about the hollow black plastic pivots in the linkage from rear door button to latchworks? You could look for an old post by me on the topic. Here's what I remember: I did it with allen-headed 1/4-20 bolts, nylon insert aircraft-type nuts (maybe the shallow ones they sell?) and a little ring I made of bent paper clip to serve as a bushing because the hole in the pivot ("bell crank") was too big and wobbled around on the 1/4-20 bolt. Hole in door sheet metal was a tad too tight, had to ream it a little with a rat-tail file.
I went for the allen head bolts because I thought they'd be easier to hold, up inside the door, while I tightened the nut down on the outside. But I since think plain hex head would work fine.
Locking-type nuts are important because you can't reef these things down or the pivot action won't work, and if you use standard fasteners they would then work loose over time and fall apart. I can't remember if I needed to spring for the shallower versions of these nuts or not; I used a pretty short 1/4-20 bolt, size given on my original post.
The idea of making some kind of a bushing is maybe not too important, a little play at the pivot is tolerable, but it worked slick. Just bend into a circle with needle nose pliers and nip off, just to slide over the bolt and inside the hole in the pivot piece.
I'm not sure it is these pivots that are stressing the actuators, I think the stress is coming from the latchworks and the pivots suffer when you the owner push or pull on the door lock button but the latch doesn't want to move.
posted by 71.173.65...
, Sun, 11 Nov 2012 20:00:36, Mon, 12 Nov 2012 07:12:28, Mon, 12 Nov 2012 10:05:31, Mon, 12 Nov 2012 11:19:20
, Mon, 12 Nov 2012 06:44:45, Mon, 12 Nov 2012 07:22:58, Mon, 12 Nov 2012 10:07:37, Mon, 12 Nov 2012 15:22:35, Mon, 12 Nov 2012 06:52:29, Mon, 12 Nov 2012 07:57:50
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