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I wonder at two of your findings:
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Posted by RayF (more from RayF) on Wed, 28 May 2014 10:31:35 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Findings……..as follows:, DET17 [Profile/Gallery] , Mon, 26 May 2014 17:30:25
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DET - - Good work. I think you're there - - you say the driver door now opens mechanically and electrically, and you also seem to say all four doors lock and unlock when driver door is locked or unlocked with the key.

But at least from my '96 observations I don't think you're correct with two of your observations, to wit:

"I'm convinced these tiny wires are inputs for the alarm system only, not central locking."

and


"The movement of the door actuator is what fires the Central Locking unit."

I don't think there's any way for the central locking system to know you have inserted a key and locked or unlocked the driver door except by the three tiny wires from the toggle microswitch that's clipped to the lock cylinder. Those wires also inform the alarm system of course, but on my car they're what tells central locking to fire the door lock-unlock devices.

Call the door lock-unlock works what you will, activators or motors, but motor works for me since they move something. They're electromagnetically moved push-pull devices, whether they have a constantly rotating or limited rotation armature or whether they're simple push-pull electromagnetic solenoids. I thought all four doors had the same unit but maybe not, since yours is a '91 and maybe more akin to the C900 system which I think I've read does have one different actuator at driver door.

Anyway I don't believe on my '96 the driver door lock actuator tells central locking anything, I think it's just a slave that pushes or pulls when told to. Mine has two wires, one blue and one brown with white, to a two-bullet connector. The tiny switch at key cylinder has three wires, red, green and black, to three bullets in a square connector that could hold a fourth wire but doesn't.

So maybe if yours is wired differently, the door actuator actually does when physically moved report to central locking. In that case yeah I guess you'd need the doglegged ball link intact so key cylinder physically unlocks the door. On mine it definitely isn't needed.

CGWiz's idea to drill out the bellcrank on the key cylinder where the ball was and make a replacement ball end from an allen-head cap screw seems like a good one. You can chuck up the right size in a power drill, just clamping down on the threads, and use it as a lathe, with a file on the head, beveling it and making it into a ball. Tap for threads in the bellcrank, then locktite it in or even put a nut on back side, and you're back in business.

Or get a second driver door lock cylinder WITH KEY from a junkyard, give both key cylinders to a locksmith, and he should understand enough about how they are put together to get you one working cylinder with ball end keyed to your original key.

I pried off the stainless front, its trap door and foam rubber seal, and tipped out the little axle and spring, then pried off an o-ring and the lock-unlock toggle switch works, then another rubber sealing ring, but can't quite figure out how to get lock guts out of it. I don't have a key to this one and that may be needed. I'm pretty sure the lock works comes out the front, revealing down inside probably a snap ring holding the lock bellcrank and key-centering return mechanism in place.

Another tip, the other three doors can also have very stiff latchworks and make extra work for the lock actuators, which then give fits to central locking, hanging up, failing to work, even firing much later than when first told to, kind of randomly as you drive.

posted by 71.173.8...
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