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Yes, mostly
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Posted by Ari [Email] (#2847) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Ari) on Tue, 14 Aug 2001 15:04:57 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: is this the same process for a 900, Adam [Profile/Gallery] , Tue, 14 Aug 2001 13:32:31
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There are differences between the 9000 and 900 heated seats, depending on year -
There are two systems- seats with a seat controller, and thermostat only. The seat controller cars have a control knob on the dashboard. Those are 9000's and later year 900's. Early 900's have no controller - they are thermostat only.

In the thermostat only cars, there is a thermoswitch in the seat the closes below a certain temperature, and opens above a higher temp. The thermoswitch is in series with the set heater, and 12 volts and ground go to the seat heater all the time. So any time the seat is below (for example only) 40F, the thermoswitch closes, and the seat starts to heat. The switch stays closed until the seat heats up to (again, example only )80F, then opens.

In the controller-equipped cars, there is no thermostat. Instead, there is a heating coil, and a temperature sensor. They run up to the controller. When the sensor says the temperature is below the setting on the controller, a relay in the controller closes and puts 12 volts onto the seat heater coil. Once the seat warms up to the set temp, the relay opens. It opens and closes as necessary to keep the seat at temperature.

Why all this information, since 95% of the time the seat heater coil is broken, and most of those times it's at the front outside of the seat? Well with the controller-type, both sides of the heater coil are available at the connector under the seat. You can measure it with an ohmmeter, and if you measure an open (high resistance), you know the coil is busted. But with the thermoswitch kind, measuring resistance doesn't help, not unless you cool the seat down low enough. That's because there is a thermostat in series with the coil, and it will be open on a warm summer day.

So - for a controller type system, get into the connector under the seat and measure the resistance of the coil. If it's open, pull up the seat cover and re-solder. If it isn't an open circuit, start tracing elsewhere. On one occasion I did have a bad controller module.

For the thermostat type systems, unless you have a cold chamber (mine's busted right now), use a meter to make sure you have 12 voltsa and a good ground at the connector under the seat. If so, It's a pretty safe assumption that the seat heater coil has a break in it. So yes, the procedure is pretty much the same - undo the seat from the car - I like unbolting the rails, and lift up the seat cover. Look for a burned mark in the foam - there usually is one. Start at the outside front of the bottom cushion -that's where the break usually is - so you don't have to strip the entire cushion.

Good luck!

posted by 140.157....
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