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Re: jerking when accelerating '88 9KT + door lock question. Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Tue, 23 Oct 2001 09:18:16
In Reply to: jerking when accelerating '88 9KT + door lock question., julz, Mon, 22 Oct 2001 20:35:57 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
In an unmodified car, you should be able to get the boost gauge needle to just touch the red zone. It shouldn't go far into the zone.
As to the bucking, there is bucking, and then there's BUCKING. If when you get into the upper end of the yellow, the engine starts to miss and buck some, then you have an ignition problem. First and foremost, check your spark plug gap. Bucking at high boost is usually due to the gap being too big. Check the gap, and make sure it's the gap specified in the owner's manual or the decal in the engine compartment. If the plugs are right and gapped properly, replace the spark plug wires. It's harder to make a spark when the pressure is high in the cylinder (under boost). A too-big spark plug gap or worn wires make it harder for the spark to jump, so you actually don't get a spark at times, causing the missing and bucking.
Then there's BUCKING. There is a fuel-cutoff switch if boost levels get too high. You should never hit this unless something has failed in the system; it's a safety backup. It kills the fuel pump if you get the needle well into the red. It is possible that the switch is cutting in too low. There is a BIG difference between the missing of a too-big plug gap and the fuel cutoff. If you're accelerating hard and the fuel cut-off kicks in, the engine dies for a few seconds. This will throw you into the windshield if you're not strapped in. And it doesn't buck - it kills fuel, the engine dies, then re-starts in a second or two. Big difference.
If the central locking works some of the time in one door, chances are the mechanism needs lubrication.
Search the archives for complete instructions, but -
At the front and back of the map pocket are two plastic caps - pop them off and remove the torx bolts. Remove the courtesy light at the back bottom of the door, and remove the little metal bracket behind it. Pull the rubbery plugs from the door grab handle and remove the screws behind. On the door release handle (inside), remove the little blank plate, and remove the screw behind. This allows you to take off the plastic surround on the release handle, and yet another screw. Disconnect the window control switch.
Start at the bottom back corner, and pull the bottom of the door panel away from the door - the bottom is held in with snap fasteners. Once the bottom of the door is free, lift it up to disengage the lip at the top of the door panel. Watch for trailing cables and wires.
Good luck!
posted by 140.157....
, Tue, 23 Oct 2001 09:18:16 <-- Viewing This Message
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