1969-1984 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
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On my 1976 99 GL, I finally dug in to my hot starting problem - car gets hot, turn the key, and starter solenoid doesn't fire. Jump pin 3 in the TSI to positive battery terminal and starter fires.
It all started when I added an MSS header - everything is hotter under there. The problem was that as the wires got hot, they got resistive and lost voltage to the point where they could not fire the solenoid. This is a known problem with Bosch starters including Saabs. Bosch offers the WR1 relay kit as a solution.
To begin, I pulled all the wiring from the starter and it was burnt and brittle. I followed it up the harness, cracking it off as I went until I reached some pliable wire and cut it there. I spliced in new yellow, brown and thick gray wire and ran them down to the starter with new connections. Then I wrapped it all in heat resistent sheathing from Summit Racing. I also bought a new positive battery cable and put that in sheathing too.
Finally, I bought a Bosch WR1 relay kit. Before installing, I researched the wiring diagrams from various years. 1976 is an interesting year - there was a recall, M16, that replaced the fuel relay with a pulse one and rewires some stuff. It would be helpful to know the details. In any case, this had been done. The start inhibitor relay had been messed with and didn't match 1976. It didn't match 1977 or 1978 either - it was a mess. In my Haynes, the 1977 North American GLE diagram had the cleanest version of how this relay should be done and it closely matched the WR1. With the WR1 instructions and the wiring diagram, I created a hybrid solution that uses the best of both. Here are the details:
pin 85 - ground to ground block under the fuse tray
pin 86 - Big yellow wire from key
pin 30 - direct to battery positive with inline 15 amp fuse (WR1 kit supplied)
pin 87 - 3 way yellow connector going to pin 50 on solenoid, TSI pin 3, and to thermo time switch/cold start valve.
Now when you turn the key, all it does is connect 86 to 85 and thus fire the relay - that connects pins 30 and 87 - direct battery positive from 30 goes to the solenoid and BAM! it has never started like this before.
Before this - current would pass through the key on its way to the solenoid, which causes voltage loss and wear and tear on the key.
I drove the car everywhere today, getting it nice and hot, and tried starting it with high beams on, etc., anything to cause a load - it started strong every time.
Does anyone have any details about recall M16?
posted by 76.88.8...
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