1950-1966 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Larry,
Sorry about the slow response. Although, I have been thinking about your problem. It is puzzling.
I had problems with my '66 stroker at one point, but mine came in the form of uncontrolled detonation that made the engine rev full throttle even with the key off. It was very scary and something to watch out for. If it ever happens, you can use the clutch and brakes to kill it. We drove it home that way. In the garage, cut a piece of cardboard to throw over the carb tops to cut off all air to the engine. Avoid the temptation to put your hands over the carbs.....yeow.
Anyway, as Bruce said, first double check to make sure the timing is correct, the A-8's are clean, the points are at the correct gap and the condensor is fairly new. Also, I think you can check the compression (I have never done it and don't know the correct numbers) to see if you burned a hole in a piston or something. I suppose if it is zero, that could indicate a problem.
If all that is fine and it still smokes, I suspect the carburetors. More specifically, I will jump right out on a limb here and guess a sticky float valve or a leaky float.
Now someone correct me if I am wrong here. It has been a few years since I had to monkey with these beasts and that experience taught me that I understand fuel injection much better than carburetors. In my new project (1974 BMW 2002), I am actually installing fuel injection to get rid of that damn toilet bowl.
I doubt the mixture screw will help fix this problem. It is in effect at idle and durng the jump to the low and high speed systems only. There is no accelerator pump on these. Once you hit the gas, the low speed and high speed systems kick in and then the main jet controls the amount of fuel pouring into the throat. So messing with the mixture screw will only improve or destroy the idle and nothing else.
Think of the carburetors as toilet bowls. No really, everytime you hit the gas you flush the toilet with a controlled amount of flow.
Anyway, I think the float level in one or more of the carbs is too high and is spilling too much fuel into the carb even at low speed. If the fuel level is too high in the bowl it will spill into the throat and flood the engine with fuel at all rpm's. The float level is critical.
It could be that a float is cracked and leaking, or even more likely that the valve the float closes as it rises is clogged or just worn. Just like in a toilet.
Pop the tops off the carbs. Enjoy the fumes, by the way. I recommend a good repirator with charcoal canisters, unless you enjoy the headache.
I am assuming it will look pretty clean in here. If it is dirty or gummed up then they may just need a gumout treatment.
Use a depth guage to check the gas level in each bowl. It should be so far from the top. I can look up the depth for you if you don't have a manual. If the car has an electric fuel pump, turn it on and see if you can see fuel leaking into the throat. If you don't have an electric pump, I recommend dumping the mechanical and searching the web for a HUCO.
I got new float valves from Bud Clark in California. He is the real expert on these carbs. Check for him on the web, or on VSaab.
Also, there are air screws on the left side of the carbs up near the top of the throat. Bud suggested that these could be used to bleed a little air into the system to smooth out a rich mix. That helped for fine tuning. Although, I don't think they were meant for this purpose because it took some thread lock to keep them from turning in and out on their own.
Be prepared to make several sets of new gaskets for the bowls before everything is right. Go slow and take several CD's that promote inner peice with you to the garage. I know patience sucks, but that is what they seem to demand.
Let me know how it goes. The good news is that once dialed in the carbs seem to work pretty well.
Chris
posted by 207.172.10...
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