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, Sat, 7 Dec 2002 22:55:39
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Happy to oblige. First off this worked on my '69 95 wagon with the Lockheed M/C whose reservoir has a big round top and mounts to the cylinder proper with 4 bolts. I believe this is a 2- or 3-year only unit and if yours is different I cannot say how my experience will apply. I got the M/C from a '79 Datsun 280Z, $12.50 at the U-Pull junkyard. I expect you can get a brand new one. The mounting holes have to be elongated closer together about 1/8" each to fit the Saab studs. The OD of the nose of the M/C where it fits into the booster has to be ground down a little, the difference will be clear when holding the Datsun and Saab cylinders side-by-side, and looking into the booster. A good seal of M/C to booster is essential or you will have a vacuum leak, Saab does this with an O-ring on the M/C nose; for the conversion you need a gasket to match the mounting flange of the Datsun M/C. You can make this from readily available gasket paper. It is critical to have correct clearance from the end of the pushrod (part of the booster) where it fits into the end of the M/C piston, if too little the brakes can be held on, if too much there will be excessive pedal play. Mine was just right; if too little you can use a thicker gasket; if too much, I think the booster pushrod is adjustable but not certain. The Datsun M/C I used has two reservoirs and the front one interferes with the engine compartment crossbar, but not by much. When mounting the cylinder I removed the front reservoir, then remounted it after the M/C was bolted up, and cut about 1/2" from the edge of the cap for that reservoir for clearance and it fits fine, just.
Moving right along (we have a ways to go, this took me several hours in a fully equipped shop): Outlets on the Saab M/C are on the right side and are 3/8" NF bubble flare. Outlets on the Datsun M/C are on the bottom and are conventional double flare. Double, bouble, dubble, bubble, blubble, buddel, babble, bibble, bobble, booble, blubber, flubber, somebody stop me! You need to buy a 40" brake line with the bubble flare (I have the part # somewhere but not handy, a decent brake parts house can get this) which gives you two bubble ends to fit the Saab brake tube block on the firewall, and a flaring tool (about 35$), and practice a few flares until you feel good about it, then cut the line to appropriate lengths and form new double flares to fit the Datsun M/C. Oh yeah, you need the flare nuts to fit the Datsun M/C, and don't forget to put them on the tube BEFORE forming the flares. And don't put them on backwards. Fortunately the brake tubes are cheap, just buy two in the first place so you won't have to go back to the store.
That's about all I can remember about how I did it. Please post back how you make out, or if you got scared off, and if questions arise. This is not a beginner-level operation.
Talking to Rick Woolfe after completing this, he thinks that the Datsun 210/310/510 model M/Cyls, which look just about like the one I used, may be a lot closer to the Saab one and require less modification, including maybe having Saab-style (bubble) tubing ends. When I get to the junkyard again I will pull one and see.
posted by 65.164.10...
, Sat, 7 Dec 2002 22:55:39
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