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Mike's right, any car with a manual choke will act like this. It doesn't mean there's something wrong, it's just part of the way you have to manage a manual choke. How you shut off the car makes no difference.
Here's what I do with mine to get it started after I haven't driven it in a couple of days:
-- Leave the choke open (position for normal driving) and crank the engine for a few seconds. This is to pump gas into the carb float bowl in case it's dried out since the last time I drove the car.
-- Push the throttle pedal to the floor and pull the choke knob out all the way. This should fully close the choke plate. The reason for pushing the throttle to the floor first is to make sure the choke doesn't hang up on the fast-idle cam, which would keep it from closing fully.
-- If it's really cold, at this point I'll pump the pedal once or twice. This squirts some extra gas into the carb throat via the accelerator pump.
-- Now twist the key and the engine should start right off. AS SOON AS IT CATCHES, push in the choke knob slightly, until it idles smoothly. Once the engine is firing, it needs more air, so you've gotta open the choke plate a bit.
-- As soon as the engine is idling smoothly, you can drive off as you want. Keep on gradually pushing the choke knob in to open the plate more as the engine warms up. While the choke is still partly closed (knob out) the engine will run roughly if you floor the gas (because the choke plate acts like a 'restrictor plate' on a NASCAR engine) so you want to get the choke opened up all the way as soon as the engine will tolerate it.
Whew! See why automatic chokes were so popular (even though they were a constant source of starting problems)? I still prefer the control you get with a manual choke, but you do have to learn the knack of managing it. Once you do that, your car should be easy to start and you won't have the reliability problems of an automatic choke.
posted by 204.76.11...
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