1950-1966 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
The only Weber I've used is the 1bbl 34ICH, but all this pumping and cranking doesn't sound normal to me. If you got your carb from one of the Saab specialists (e.g. Chip L. or Jack A.) I'd say get back in touch and ask if you've got the correct jets and whether there are any tricks to setting up the choke cable.
This isn't one of the Webers that has an 'anti-diesel solenoid' (like the 34ICH), is it? If so, it'd make me wonder whether you've got a good 12v supply to the solenoid. (This is a gizmo that cuts off the fuel to the carb if its 12v supply is interrupted -- purpose is to keep the car from 'dieseling' or 'chugging' after the engine is shut off.)
I can tell you more about the wheel cylinders because I've done the same job myself. No, it's not a super hard job IF everything goes right, which mostly means if the hoses are NOT rusted in place! Removing the hub/brake drum doesn't require any exotic tools, except that the nut that holds it on is really big and you may have to go out and buy a socket to fit it. (Sorry, I don't remember the size -- I just know I gotta pull that big honkin' socket out of the bottom of the toolbox when I want to remove a drum!)
First, clean up everything around the brake drum as clean as you can get it, because you'll be taking off hoses and you don't want to get any gunk into your hydraulic system. Then pry off the spindle cap, take out the cotter pin, apply your big honkin' socket and spin off the castle nut that holds on the drum.
Other than that, all ya gotta do to get the drum off is make sure the parking brake is off (sounds like a duhhh, but I've done it myself!!) AND turn the brake adjuster (top of the backing plate on the inside) all the way out so the shoes are completely free of the drum. The adjuster has a square peg; you can get an 8-point socket that will fit it. Do NOT just try to turn it with Vise-Grips or whatever, because you'll round it off and then it'll be really hard to adjust the brakes.
Once the shoes are free and the retaining nut is off, you may be able to work off the drum by hand by wiggling it around the rim. If it won't come off, a big 3-jaw gear puller (I bought a cheapo one at Home Depot just for this purpose) should get it started; then you can ease it off the rest of the way by hand. I suggest this rather than just yanking it off with the puller because you want to be a bit careful when removing it -- you don't want to put any nicks or gouges in the chrome stub axle that it slides on, because the stub axle has to seal up perfectly against the hub seals to keep the grease from the wheel bearings from leaking out onto the brakes.
With the drum off, you'll be able to see the mechanism for the brake shoes, parking brake lever, springs, and wheel cylinder (at the bottom.) Only tip here is to study it carefully and make sketches before you take it apart -- the shoes and springs have to go back on the right way, and it's easy to forget if you didn't note how the old ones were in there. Once you've got the shoes off (just spread 'em against spring tension with your hands -- stiff, but they'll come) you can remove the wheel cylinder by removing the hose, the bleed nipple, and an E-clip from outside of the backing plate (the E-clip will probably be all rusty and covered with crud, so may be hard to pry off.) Brake fluid will go everywhere when you remove the hose and nipple, but you can't avoid it. One thing that helps a bit is to replace the vented cap on the brake master cylinder with one that does NOT have a vent, so the fluid will drip out more slowly. Master cylinders vary, but on my car, the plastic cap off a 20-oz Diet Pepsi bottle was a perfect fit and sealed up tight!
So, once you've cleaned up the backing plate, installed the new wheel cylinder, hooked up your new braided hose, put the new shoes in with the springs, retainers, etc., slid the drum back on, retorqued the castle nut to the correct specs and put in a new cotter pin, you're almost done. All you have to do is bleed the brakes (will take a long time because you've probably let a lot of air into the system; a Mity-Vac helps a lot) and adjust the brake adjuster, and you're done!
As I said, that's assuming everything's clean and not too rusty to start with. If your job is more like mine, all hell will break loose at several stages (hoses rusted in place, wheel cylinder clip rusted onto backing plate, springs flying all over, adjuster rounded off by previous abuse etc. etc.) If that kind of stuff happens, just stay calm, take your time, and keep reminding yourself that you're not on a deadline, you can always walk away and work on it later, and that you're doing this because IT IS SUPPOSED TO BE FUN!
posted by 68.13.138...
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
